Cycling trip to Athens - 2021
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 1 - Heading south
The planning is complete, the bike is ready to go, the bobby is packed, the route is stored in the GPS device, the last telecon with colleagues is over and a final email has been sent to the THW teammates.
Thursday, June 30, 2021: Let's go!
The rain of the night has stopped when I get on my bike shortly after 9 a.m. to start my journey to Athens. Many thoughts are spinning like crazy in my mind. There is the joy of the journey, there are worries about the dangers along the way, thoughts about my mother and so on. But I put all of this aside for the time coming. The cycle trip to Athens will be cycled in many small stages and not in one day. For now, the route takes me to Stuttgart. And from there on through the Remstal valley to Schwäbisch Gmünd. Then on to Aalen and Nördlingen. Here I will spend the night. Because of all the rain, I don't want to spend the night in a tent.
The next morning, the route will take me to Donauwörth. This is where the "Via Claudia Augusta" route begins, which will take me southwards over the Alps. Donauwörth is not new to me. I cycled through here once before in 2014. At that time on the way to the Black Sea. Today I'm not following the Danube, but the Via Claudia Augusta towards Augsburg. My next stop on the way south. The road to Augsburg is marked by the heavy storms of the last few days. Thick branches, sometimes whole trees, are lying on the path, making progress difficult sometimes.
The Alps come into sight - still barely recognizable and surrounded by haze. I pass Landsberg am Lech, reach the busy town of Füssen, cross the Austrian border and reach Reutte in Tyrol. There were no checks at the border. There was actually no border on the cycle path either. No corona-related checks. Nothing! I follow the route towards Fernpass and spend the night in Leermoos. The next day doesn't start very challenging at first. That changes at the Fernpass. The route leads to the municipality of Fernpass on partly steep paths, mostly far away from traffic. The warm sun invites you to take a short break. The rain of the last few days is finally over. I spend the night in Pfunds so that I can continue over the Reschen Pass to South Tyrol tomorrow.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 2 - Across the Alps
I'm quite amazed how quickly you can actually get to the Alps by bike.
On the fifth day of my trip, I reach Merano in South Tyrol. On the way, I pass many small communities that I visited years ago with the Leonberg THW junior group. I have many lovely memories of this area. In the evening, I reach Merano with its thermal baths and beautiful old town.
The next day, I follow the Adige River south for many kilometers without any climbing. Bolzano is the destination. The paths are well developed and so I can make some speed, as the routes along the Adige and endless fields with apple trees gradually become boring. It's also getting warm. However, the route doesn't remain so easy to ride all day. As I pass the town of Trento, the Via Claudia Augusta leaves the Adige and starts to climb a lot. The route is now very similar to the old paths on which the Romans traveled by foot. It goes steeply uphill. So steep that my rear wheel slips. I find a place to stay overnight in Levico Terme.
The stage from Levico Terme to Feltre through the Dolomites was a rollercoaster of emotions. Just read a few lines from the travel diary:
While checking the tires, I see a large spike stuck in the side of the front tire. I pull the stupid thorn out and can already hear the air leaking out. Oh dear God. What a mess. Well, it doesn't help to be annoyed, I have to get a replacement tube! I unhook the bobby, unload the bag, get the necessary tools and change the inner tube. Then I inflate it (oh how convenient it is at home with the compressor...!) Pack everything up again, hook it up and continue. I'll patch the inner tube tonight at home. Then it's a relaxed ride through the wide valley for a few kilometers. Well, it can stay like this all day long in my opinion. But as soon as I finish thinking about it, the path branches off from the valley and leads up into the mountains. Now, in the evening, I can't remember how many climbs there were today. Definitely quite a few and some of them were very steep. I reach the Passo Forcella around lunchtime. After more than three hours, I've cycled just 35 kilometers. Not much, but exhausting. But I have to admit one thing: The landscape here is absolutely beautiful! And I am completely amazed at where people have built everywhere. Wherever there is a bit of space on the mountain, there is a church and a village around it. But then there are places where there is nothing at all, just nature. It's hard to believe that there's something like that here. It goes downhill. Steeply downhill. Once I was going faster than 65 km/h, I slowed down. Because the brakes started screaming before a bend. Plus, I don't want to grind down two sets of brake pads in a single week.
The track leads up to the Passo Croce d'Aune. Boah, that took endless time. Mostly in the sun, I was soaked with sweat in my cycling gloves. The washed-out letters on the road show that the Giro Italia professionals have probably already struggled up here. But that doesn't make it any easier at the moment.... Fortunately, even this pass is overcome at some time. As the old saying goes, it is now downhill again. It's fun rushing through the bends. The Bobby is also doing well! Only the brakes..., they keep screaming because they get very hot. I finally reach the town of Feltre at 5 pm.
On the evening of July 7th I reach Lido di Jesolo after a tough stage. I have reached the Adria. The cold, wet and windy weather that accompanied me north of the Alps is now history. It's now sunny and hot. I've cycled almost 1,000 kilometers in 8 days and crossed the Alps.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 3 - Along the Adriatic - Croatia
The route follows the Gulf of Trieste in a South-Easterly direction. Trieste is the last big city in Italy before I arrive in Slovenia. I'm a bit nervous about crossing the border into Slovenia. There are still restrictions in many countries due to coronavirus and border controls. In fact, there are still checkpoints and tents at the border crossing. However, they are all unmanned. I enjoy the bike ride through Slovenia. The landscape reminds me a lot of the Black Forest. I was fascinated by the large barbecues in front of the roadhouses, on which whole pigs were being barbecued. I have a feeling that southern European cuisine is not very vegetarian.
The border crossing to Croatia was very busy. I put on the obligatory mask as soon as I get there. There are actually only a few vehicles in front of me, but there is very little progress. The checks are very strict. Behind me, the queue gets longer and longer. There are discussions in front of me, papers are passed back and forth and finally it's my turn. A quick look at my ID card, a quick glance at my vaccination certificate and I can continue. Everything is easy. Welcome to Croatia.
The quiet midsummer weather turns into a severe storm on the first night. Suddenly, objects fly through my accommodation, the windows slam shut and I can't run fast enough to close all the windows in the apartment. Even the next morning, the wind hasn't calmed down. A sudden gust catches me in front of the house and I almost lose my balance. I can't go ahead with my plan to cycle along Magistrale 1. It's far too dangerous, if a gust comes from the side and pushes me towards the middle of the road, I'll be driven over. So I have to cycle through the mountains. The wind will be even stronger there. Unfortunately, that was indeed the case: gusts of wind that hit me from the front were almost painful. The storm hits me with so much force. If the gusts come from the side, it pushes me and the whole trailer a few meters to the side. Before the little pennant on the bobby breaks off, I take it down. Fortunately, the route finally leaves the mountains and leads through valleys that are sheltered from the wind. I reach the town of Otocac in the evening.
The storm is followed by heat and dryness. During the day, temperatures in the shade now reach well over 30 degrees Celsius. I carry a total of 5 liters of water on my bike and bobby, since I can't expect to find enough drinking water in the mountains. The route leads through an extremely dry landscape. Only sun and heat. No shade. And even the wind is not cooling, it feels like a hot air blower. My water reserves are literally evaporating. I make short stops to drink again and again. Luckily I have plenty of water with me. There is no supermarket here in this remote area where you can stop for a moment to buy water. I reach the Adriatic again in the afternoon. The mountains are behind me. The difference is huge. Whereas just an hour ago I was out on the prairie in blazing heat with an occasional little house along the road, now there are beer stops, sausage stands, expensive cars, yachts and luxury in abundance. Well, that's probably the way of the world. The unbelievably extreme contrast between rich and poor keeps my mind occupied for quite some time. I am convinced that it is sometimes necessary to consciously refuse something in order to realize what you actually have.
A dark smoke cloud in the town of Srima pulls me out of my thoughts. Well, that doesn't look like a barbecue fire. The route leads exactly in the direction of the smoke cloud. A few minutes later, I can see huge flames behind the houses in the town. I stop and ask a spectator to call the fire department. I might not even be able to tell them on the phone which street I'm in. Apparently nobody has noticed the fire yet, not to mention that nobody has called the fire department. The man is relieved when he has stopped talking on the phone. Apparently he was the first caller. The wind is blowing the flames up again. The flames can be seen far above the houses. Well, that's all I can do and I continue on my way. Over the next quarter of an hour, many fire engines come towards me. Major operation! The wind drives the smoke in my direction for quite a while. On the horizon, I can already see the next cloud of smoke. No wonder, everything is so dry here.
I take the first rest day of my trip in Split. I've now covered over 1,600 km and I'm starting to realize that the sun, strong winds and the heat are getting hard to handle. In addition, I am cycling between 90 and 140 kilometers every day. I look for a cheap place to stay on the periphery of Split's old town. After cooling off in the Adriatic, I take a short walk through the old town and the Dalmatian Palace in the evening.
After the rest day in Split, the route often leads along the beaches where people lie in the sun and bake like roast potatoes. The water of the Adriatic is very inviting for a swim. It's nice to cool off in the heat, but I want to cycle, not swim. In the evening, I receive the first information about the catastrophic storms and flooding in North Rhine-Westphalia and the Ahr valley. It must be very bad there. I follow the news reports with interest and hope that the damages are not so serious.
I reach Dubrovnik on the 17th day of my trip. Cycling on the main road - also known as the Magistrale - is dangerous. I keep seeing memorial stones along the main road. The main road is unforgiving. Fortunately, the trucks and cars that overtake me are fairly careful. Oncoming traffic is different. Drivers overtake and don't see cyclists at all or only very late. It's a very scary feeling when two cars suddenly come towards me side by side at very high speed. Watch out, watch out, watch out! The old town of Dubrovnik is very impressive. However, there is hardly any place where cycling is as impossible as here. There are stairs everywhere. I have to carry my bike and the Bobby a hundred meters up the steps until I reach my accommodation.
With this I have crossed Croatia from north and south and will reach Montenegro tomorrow.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 4 - Along the Adriatic - Montenegro
Entering Montenegro was completely easy. Give your ID card, wait, get packed and drive on.
Monte - Negro (black mountain) really lives up to its name!
After passing the international airport of Tivat on the main road, I head off towards the mountains. I've now cycled almost 80 kilometres on a fairly flat route. But now the road climbs steeply uphill. This was announced. The route already indicated that there would be another 1,000 metres of ascent at the end of today's stage. It takes a moment for my legs to build up enough power to tackle the climb. Sweat is pouring out of my pores in the blazing sun. Fortunately, I have enough water with me to drink. For the next 25 kilometres, the route is just uphill. There are 26 hairpin bends, at least that's what it says on a sign at the last hairpin bend. But that's not all. After a few kilometres, the route climbs even higher. At the end, the GPS device shows 1040 metres in altitude.
In Cetinje, I look for an overnight stay and take a tour of the old town. There is a beautiful and very large pedestrian zone. Everything is full of people. There are lots of restaurants and live music in front of some of them. The whole pedestrian zone is lined with lots of big old chestnut trees. There is a lot of life on the street here. Without any crowds of tourists! I walk through the pedestrianised zone for a while and finally settle down at a restaurant. Something to eat would be great right now. I want to try the local cuisine, of course. While I'm waiting for my food and enjoying a cold beer, I'm joined by a stray dog. Although I had showered before the walk...! He's waiting to see if there's anything left for him. And then that puppy dog look... The next minute I could take the dog home with me. But the stupid dog at the neighbouring table is barking like a crazy dog and that's probably getting on the hungry dog's nerves even more than mine. Anyway, he moves away and looks back sadly. Well, this dude already knew how to bring a guy to love him...
The next day is Sunday. The day starts quietly. It is also raining and I take my time with the start of the stage. After a few kilometres, the track leaves the main road and runs along a very little-used but beautiful scenic road. Well, the road wasn't that nice, but the view was. Unbelievable. Really very beautiful. The mountains and the view over the valleys. Unfortunately, my joy is somewhat dampened in the late morning. Flat tyre. Crap! Luckily on the front tyre. I quickly pulled out the inner tube, patched it and put it back in. A thunderstorm is brewing over the mountains in the horizon. It looks very nice when the lightning flashes from the sky, but I'd prefer not to be somewhere in the mountains when it's thundering. The thunderstorms are stuck in the mountains. Unfortunately, I drive straight towards them instead of away from them. It only drips a little for a surprisingly long time. But then the rain gets much heavier. It also gets cold. I can't continue like this. I stop and get the rain jacket and waterproof overshoes out of the bobby. Protected from the rain, I can continue. From the saddle of a pass I can already see Albania.
There are long queues again at the border crossing. A car driver points out to me that there is a passage for pedestrians. It's quicker for me there. That's very nice of him. Montenegro and Albania share the border facilities. The border guard from Montenegro checks at one window, the border guard from Albania at the other. I give my ID card, quick check, done. Let's continue. Welcome to Albania.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 5 - Along the Adriatic - Albania
There is a lot of traffic on the roads. It feels a bit like Tunisia here. The markets, the minarets, the people, the traffic and so on. I soon reach my hotel in Shkoder. The people are very friendly.
The next day I have to continue on the main road. The side roads are too bad or littered with rubbish and broken glass. Unfortunately, the traffic is quite heavy. But the cars don't drive as fast as in Croatia. The cars and lorries show respect for cyclists. I often see older people travelling on very old and damaged bicycles. But this is probably out of necessity, because they have no other means of transport. The route passes through several large towns. I am always fascinated by the crowds at the markets, the many people in front of the shops and somehow also by the semi-coordinated chaos on the streets. You quickly get used to it and somehow I always manage to get through safely. There are now also good routes beyond the main road. At least until the airport in Tirana. This is where the road branches off again and becomes a gravel track. But feasible. Unfortunately, it is still quite a long way to Durres. Well, more than 150 kilometres in one day isn't really short either. I've now run out of water and realise that one packet of biscuits is not enough for the whole day when you're cycling at full speed for most of the day.
I reach my accommodation in the evening. After having a shower, I get something to eat and drink. I don't want to drink the water in the hotel here. I did take a few big swallows because I was incredibly thirsty, but my senses told me loud and clear: Stop it! The supermarket sells bottled water, which I really don't like for environmental reasons, but there's simply no other option here. I take a walk to the beach, get something to eat and walk back to the hotel.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 6 - Albania - Country and people
I really want to share a few thoughts about the country and its people here:
But where do I start with my impressions...?
Perhaps I'll start with the road traffic. It's very crowded on the main roads. But people show respect for cyclists. However, I realise that I'm almost travelling at the speed of light compared to the usual cyclists there. In any case, I keep noticing that people are quite misjudging their speed. So far, however, I haven't had to slam on the brakes because someone suddenly pulls out of a driveway. But when cars overtake me, drivers often realise very late that I'm going much faster than they think and that they can't get past me as easily or quickly as they thought. Sometimes it almost gets scary with oncoming traffic. But it would be worse if they simply pull to the right and I would be at a loss. But that's not the case. They show respect for cyclists. Thank you!
On less busy roads, from time to time someone gives a short horn honk behind me. But it's this "Watch out, I'm about to overtake you" honking. It sounds strange, but you realise that people are relaxed. Every now and then there's a thumbs up from the co-driver. Never the dirty finger. Even the police drive by giving the thumbs up from time to time or briefly sound their alarm sirens.
In the first hotel I stayed in yesterday, the people were very, very helpful and really, really polite. Something I'm not at all used to in the service desert known as Germany. The people are really welcoming. That's why I think it's a shame that Google automatically completes Shkoder with ".... Crime". Well, if you're walking alone in a park at night in a big city, you unfortunately have to expect to have unpleasant experiences everywhere. That's where your own human sense helps.
Unfortunately, rubbish really is quite a problem. Or to say it briefly. It looks like rubbish wherever people are. Sadly, there is no environmental awareness. Beautiful streams or small rivers are covered with empty PET bottles. There's rubbish in every hole where you can throw rubbish. Sometimes it smells terribly of rubbish and sewage. There's probably also a dog that's been run over in the street and rotting away, I don't know. Construction waste is simply thrown into the ditch somewhere. Out of sight out of mind. Even while I'm taking a break next to the road, someone comes along with a wheelbarrow full of rubble and dumps it right next to me in the ditch. That's not very nice. But there doesn't seem to be a corresponding infrastructure either. There doesn't seem to be a rubbish collection service that empties the bins at home, just large central bins on the street. Everything goes in there. Waste separation...? What a joke... The large public squares in the cities look and smell accordingly in summer. Unfortunately, I don't know why so much rubbish still ends up in the countryside. In any case, it's an extreme pity.
Oh, there are so many thoughts going round in my head about this (of course, you have to think about something during the day while you're cycling, if the traffic allows it).
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 7 - Week "Three"
My bike tachometer shows 2501 kilometres on day 22 of my journey to Athens. I am travelling in Albania. The country has captured me. Every now and then the horn honks next to me and a driver waves or points his thumb upwards. I always check very carefully to make sure it's not the dirty finger. But it never is. That also motivates me a bit. As I said, the people are very friendly and relaxed. I would like to take a little copy of that and adopt it for myself. The sun burns incredibly hot from the sky and my 4.5 litres of water for the trip are used up quite early. I now need 10 to 12 litres of water a day! But that doesn't mean I have to stop for a pee during the day. The route is mostly very challenging, as there are so many metres in altitude to climb. However, the landscape is very beautiful as you cycle through the mountains.
To be honest, I rarely think about home anymore. In the first two weeks I was still planning what I was going to do when I got back home, but now I really rarely think about home, but more about where else I could go. Amman (in Jordan) or Erbil (in northern Iraq) keep popping into my mind. I know Amman well and the THW now also connects me to Erbil. So what's another 1800 kilometres? I really look enviously at the people in Athens who can say: Let's move on....!
On the other hand, I've seen and experienced so much in the last few weeks and I'm still a way from Athens. What I often think about is my garden when I see beautiful gardens while travelling. I do miss my garden a little (even though it's probably more of a mosquito hell than a place of relaxation at the moment because of all the heavy rain).
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 8 - Greece - The cradle of bureaucracy
Leaving Albania was really easy. After half a kilometre, I reach the border station for entering Greece. It's not very busy, but there are people walking around with disposable protective clothing, masks and face shields. Oh boy, in Albania they looked at me funny in the first supermarket when I went in wearing a facemask. After that, I really enjoyed shopping at a distance in the supermarket WITHOUT a mask. But here on the border to Greece it's a real party because of corona. A lady in disposable protective clothing comes up to me and asks me for my PFL. What kind of thing? I have an ID card, a vaccination certificate and that's all I need as an EU citizen if I want to enter the EU. After all, that's the basic idea behind the whole EU. But here I still need a passenger localisation form. Are they out of their minds?!?!?!! Surely the Greeks aren't seriously trying to steal Germany's leading position when it comes to bureaucracy? Well, whatever. I don't have one of those things. When I left home there was no word of it. "No problem," the lady tells me. I can fill it in online and then entering the country is no problem. They have set up WLAN especially for this. So then, why not make the bureaucracy happy for now. Luckily there's some shade and I get started.
Oh well, first create my own account. Then wait for the confirmation e-mail, which actually arrives in my e-mail inbox pretty soon. The link I have to click on even works and I can now come up with a password. Well, that was easy so far. Then I register on the civil defence website. Then an endless series of questions starts:
- Name, address, telephone number, e-mail address
- Where do I come from, where do I want to go (exact address of the accommodation, whereby the system somehow checks the data and I desperately try to copy the Greek letters of the street from my accommodation into the stupid field)
- Number of the identity card
- Date of vaccination, which vaccine?
- Emergency contact where I can be found. I enter my sister's address. I only have to check the phone number and look it up in my smartphone's address book.
All right, let's move on. Did you think...
Timeout / Zeitüberschreitung.... You will be redirected to the home page.
No, not now, eh?!?!?!
At this point, I'm really getting blood pressure and I'm starting to damn the software developers of this world. Okay, stay calm. Again....
State, border crossing, next accommodation, ID card, vaccine, emergency contact and what other shit they wanted to know.
Your details will be checked....
"The maximum number of travellers that can enter via the selected entry point on the selected date has been reached. Please try again with a different date".
Did someone shit in their brains???!?!?!!!? I'm sorry for the choice of words, but what's with the bullshit? The lady in disposable protective clothing comes up to me and asks if I'm making any progress. I copy the text into Google Translate and show her the message. Oh, hm, ... So...???
I should just try directly at the police station on immigration and explain the problem there. That's a good idea. I walk the few metres to the border control officer. The man at the counter looks at the message, shakes his head and tells me that I can't enter the country without this PFL. Well, that's good. Thankfully, the man is willing to talk to me. I explain to him that I'm travelling by bike and left Germany three weeks ago. There was no question of a PFL then. And if I can't enter the country today, then I have no choice but to pitch my tent here at the border tonight and then try to enter again tomorrow. I need to get ahead. I don't want to go back to Albania (as nice as it was there...!). Thankfully, the guy has an understanding. "Greece and Germany are friends," he says. ID card please. A quick check and a very clear instruction, go ahead, drive on...!
I don't need to be told twice. I grab my stuff and leave the station. A little later, I sort my documents back into the Bobby's bag. Border done. But I'm a little annoyed. Such a stupid form, a piece of shit that just doesn't work properly and you end at some point looking pretty stupid because someone hasn't correctly typed a line in the software that nobody has tested. Oh well. But now I'm cycling through beautiful fruit plantations towards Igoumenitsa. Mostly without any major climbs. I just focus on the tour again and try to fill in the stupid PLF this evening. In peace. On the sofa. With a beer....
I actually managed to finish the stupid PLF after all. After three more attempts....
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 9 - Greece - Start again
Since I didn't have an easy entrance into Greece, I still wanted to remain optimistic on my tour. After all, I've already travelled this far and don't really want to let the bureaucracy and any absurd rules ruin my mood.
But then I remember about the sea tunnel near Preveza. Well, there was another story....
From Preveza to Aktio there is a 2 kilometre tunnel going under the sea. The only other option is to follow Eurovelo 8 and cycle around a huge bay. That's roughly 150 kilometres extra. The problem is that the tunnel is closed for cyclists. I had already realised this in advance. Like so many times before, there are stories circulating on the internet that someone from the tunnel operator comes, loads your bike onto a small van and takes you through the tunnel. There are even pictures of this. Well, that would be great to be able to save this long way round. But how long would it take on a Friday afternoon for someone to take me there in a van? So I decide to get to the tunnel as quickly as possible. I arrive at the tunnel entrance shortly after 2pm. Not really anything special. The traffic is not very heavy and the gradient of the entrance is only moderate. Why shouldn't I just cycle through it?
You could almost fail to notice the signs banning bicycles if they weren't so large and numerous. So as I'm standing under a surveillance camera as described and wait to see what happens. At the same time, I keep an eye out for vans and give them the thumbs up. Just like in the old days: Classic hitchhiking. Usually, when I stop on the road to get something to eat or drink, people always look at me curiously. But now everyone in the cars just stares straight ahead. Just don't look at the guy giving the thumbs up. Maybe the coronavirus will jump into the car...? A few old rickety scooters drive past me and into the tunnel. Oh yeah, they're allowed. Well, I can do that too and put the bobby back on the bike. "They can just fuck off," I say to myself and am just about to drive off when a van from the tunnel operator actually arrives. Wow, that's incredible. The driver gets out and immediately makes it very clear to me that I shouldn't attempt to cycle through the tunnel. Okay, very friendly. He gives me a piece of paper with telephone numbers of taxi or bus companies. I should call them, ask them to pick me up and take me through the tunnel. I ask him to just give me a ride if he's going through the tunnel anyway. Without saying a word, he gets into the car and drives off. A....
The stubborn guy in me says I don't care and I'm going through this bloody tunnel. That's it. Another voice reminds me that I didn't complete my PFL correctly yesterday. So if, in addition to driving through the tunnel illegally, I also have trouble with the stupid PFL, then there's a lot of frustration for nothing. So tick off the fucking tunnel and drive around the stupid bay. 150 extra kilometres. Call a taxi and so on.... Nope, not in the mood. It's already 3pm and I'm really hungry. My biscuits are almost all empty, so I decide to have lunch in one of the restaurants. While I enjoy the local cuisine, I think about how to continue tomorrow. Bypass the bay or organise transport? But first I decide to finish for the day. I look for accommodation and stop the tour for today.
At my accommodation, I talk to the host about the tunnel. He is very annoyed about the tunnel because it separates people from two neighbouring towns. In the past, people used to take a short ferry ride half a kilometre to visit friends or relatives. No problem as a child. Today it's unreachable. Only by taxi. He's on the phone calling a friend. And so tomorrow morning I do have someone who can take me through the tunnel for a reasonable amount of money. That also makes the overnight stay situation a lot easier. Well, sometimes there's a trump card that you don't even know about at first.
The next morning, the van is already waiting outside the accommodation. I remove the front wheel with three screws so that the bike fits easily into the car. Ten minutes later we are at the tunnel and another TWO minutes later we are already through. This must be a complete joke!!! I would have cycled through on one bum cheek. However, there are a lot of cameras in the tunnel and right after that there is a toll station. I suppose they would have pulled me out here at the latest. Or not, if you're prepared to act stupid enough. But unfortunately I don't have that ability. So the driver lets me off after the toll station, helps me unload, gets his money and disappears immediately. I re-assemble my bike and set off. Further and further to the south.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 10 - Greece - Final sprint
There are still three days until Athens. I should take a rest day soon. The enormous heat is exhausting. My water consumption is now more than 12 litres a day. 15 litres are necessary to have to pee at some point. The one or other stage is one of the obligatory stages that you simply have to cycle on such a long journey. Of course, there are many stages where the route runs along beautiful beaches. Small restaurants invite you to enjoy a cosy lunch at lunchtime. A good refreshment for the next kilometres. However, I'm not that hungry in the heat. A problem, because I need that energy. I have lost weight during the journey.
The 26th day of my journey brings me to Corinth. From here it is just a day's stage to Athens. Hm, a strange feeling. I really enjoy the night in my accommodation. The sea rushes below the balcony and I fall into a deep sleep. During the night, the wind shifts and now blows from the land. It carries with it the aromatic smell of burning pines. The forest fires have now broken out in numerous places. Fortunately, I have not (yet) had to take a diversion because of the forest fires. The route to Athens leads along some very busy roads. Sometimes I don't really understand the Eurovelo. While there are areas where the route doesn't leave out any viewpoints, sights or other "points of interest", the route now follows an ugly, noisy, busy, smelly main road. The wind blows the dirt into my eyes and the car drivers become more hectic and aggressive with every kilometre I cycle towards Athens.
Then it's done: After 3113 kilometres, which I cycled in 28 days (including rest days), I reach my accommodation in Athens on 27 July 2021! The cycle trip to Athens is done. I am absolutely happy, but also very tired at the moment.
I have stored the important points in my GPS device and cycle around the city. The first point on my list was the Acropolis. There weren't many visitors queuing in the early morning. It wasn't that hot yet either. During the day, temperatures of more than 40 degrees Celsius are forecasted for Athens. There were already warnings not to set the air conditioners too cold so as not to overload the power grids. I really enjoyed visiting the Acropolis. This mountain with its historical monuments was, after all, the purpose of my trip. "I cycled to the Acropolis". I can rightly say that now! I cycle on to the observatory. From there you not only have a good view of the stars, but also of Athens. As far as the eye can see: A sea of houses.
I take a look at a few other interesting sights in Athens.
In the late afternoon, I find out where the bus station is. Tomorrow morning, a bus will (hopefully) take me to Igoumenitsa from there. The homeward journey begins. An adventure in itself. Because now I no longer have my journey in my own hands, but have to rely on transport such as buses and trains. That's not always uncomplicated with a bicycle.
Cycle trip to Athens - 2021 -- Chapter 10 - Greece & Italy - The homeward journey
At 6 o'clock this morning, the thermometer already shows 32 degrees Celsius. I haven't slept well. Without air conditioning, it's almost impossible for the body to rest. With air conditioning, it's just too loud in the room (and there's a cold breeze in the room).
I'm on my way to the central bus station in Athens. The Kifisou. I take a long-distance coach from Athens to the harbour town of Igoumenitsa, which I already passed through briefly on the way to Athens. As the landscape outside sweeps along, some parts of it look very familiar to me. Clearly, I passed by here on my bike a few days ago. Meanwhile, the bus thermometer shows an outside temperature of 41 degrees Celsius. The heat is shimmering on the horizon.
Late in the evening (around 9.30 pm), the ferry departs. Destination: Ancona in Italy.
On the ferry, I booked a seat in an open-plan compartment with cinema seats. Not a cabin. Because I could sleep poorly for less money. The ferry was very noisy. And unfortunately not very clean. It was too dirty on deck for me to spread out my sleeping pad and sleep there. I have already read in a travel report that the "Grimaldi Lines" probably rundown the ferries quite a lot. Unfortunately, I must confirm this. In the evening of the next day, the ferry reaches the Italian harbour town of Ancona at around 5 pm. I drive to the train station to continue my journey north by train. Bologna is my destination. I want to spend the night there and continue my journey the next day.
As my train from Bologna to Bolzano doesn't leave until the afternoon, I have plenty of time for a tour around the city of Bologna to visit the attractions. I reach Bolzano in the early evening. Here I have to change to a Eurocity train to Munich. I'm really looking forward getting back home, back to my garden. I've planned to spend the weekend in the garden and slowly return to everyday life after my cycle trip. As I am about to board the Eurocity in Bolzano, the conductor shouts from afar that he is not going to let me on the train. I run up to him and show him the extra ticket for the bike. But he's not interested at all. He will NOT let me on the train. He is not even interested in all the begging and explanations. He signals the train driver to depart, the doors close and I'm still standing at the station in Bolzano. Fucking RAILWAY!!!!
It is Saturday evening. A heavy thunderstorm has just passed over Bolzano and I'm standing here, still standing bewildered, watching my train leaving, cursing the conductor and the railway and considering what to do next. I check for alternatives. There are trains to Germany on Sunday. All of them are completely booked up. No chance. What about Monday? No, from about midnight the railway line across the Brenner Pass will be closed for a week because of maintenance work. Wonderful!
The first thing I do now is look for accommodation. Because it's still pouring with rain, I don't feel like camping in the rain after everything I've just been through. Although this might actually suit my mood. For a lot of money, I find quite basic overnight accommodation to stay in at short notice. But at least I have a shelter. While I enjoy the warm water from the shower, I think about the best way to get home. The decision is quickly made. " Fuck the train" - I'll cycle back home.
August 2021 -- Day 33 of my trip. I get on my bike in the pouring rain. Along the way, I have to cycle through knee-deep water because the heavy rain has caused streams and small rivers to burst their banks. It's a sharp change from the enormous heat in Athens to the pouring rain in South Tyrol. I put on all of my rain gear. It's a good thing I've been carrying my rain gear behind me in my bobby for over 3,000 kilometres. Next stop: Brixen. Heavy thunderstorm with heavy rain falling. I take shelter under a bridge for half an hour. Thunderstorms are extremely dangerous! Franzensfeste... I'm absolutely freezing! Brenner... I'm at the pass. Now I continue to Innsbruck. Unfortunately not all downhill. The route is actually quite challenging. That's good, because at least I'll keep warm when I cycle uphill. It rains, rains and rains. When I arrive at my accommodation in Innsbruck, I'm tired and freezing cold. It is rare that I have enjoyed a warm shower as much as I did that evening. I spread my wet clothes all over the room and hope that they will at least be a little dryer by the next morning.
I start the next morning in almost dry clothes. In Innsbruck I get some provisions for the day. I cycle towards Lake Achensee. The uphill climb is so steep in some parts that my rear wheel slips away because there's not enough grip on the gravel. When I reach Lake Achensee I am soaked with sweat and quickly put on warm clothes. There's a very chilly wind. First drops of rain are falling. I enjoy the ride around the Lake Achensee and spend the whole time thinking quite emotionally about the last trip I took with my mum to the Lake Achensee when she was doing reasonably well. This had been her last holiday. After that, the dementia took over. She is now in her own world. But maybe that little holiday at Lake Achensee is part of it...?
I reach the Lake Walchensee and a little later Lenggries and in the late afternoon my destination for tonight. Bad Tölz. I find a great place to stay at the youth hostel. A young hiker in the room tells me about his plan to walk the "Munich - Venice Traumpfad". We sit in the room for a long time and talk about the Traumpfad, which I hiked with Pascal many years ago. Many wonderful memories come alive again. The next day, these memories become even more vivid as I cycle along the Traumpfad. I see the signs and remember parts of the route. It's an exciting feeling to be travelling here after so many years and still the landscape looks so familiar. However, I now set my focus on my destination for today: Augsburg. I find accommodation again in a youth hostel. Unfortunately, there's no-one else in our room today. That's a pity, the conversations with the people here are always really enjoyable.
The next day starts at 6.30 am.
Last stage.
As so often in the last weeks, I pack the Bobby's bag, return the room key, get the bike and Bobby out of the shelter, load the Bobby, hitch him to the bike and set off. I've done this so often in the last few weeks, and I've enjoyed doing it every time, that I'm sure I'll miss it from tomorrow. After all, every day has brought something completely different.
I arrive in Donauwörth around lunchtime. The route then continues towards Nördlingen, across the Swabian Alb and finally down to Aalen. It's been 150 kilometres up to here today. I have another 80 kilometres to Leonberg. A 230 kilometre stage at the end of the trip? Not really, I had already decided that last night. In Aalen I get on a regional train and travel to Stuttgart. From there I continue towards Leonberg. But I get off one stop earlier. In Höfingen I cycle through the Glemstal valley. This is part of my jogging circuit, which I haven't run for many weeks. I really enjoy the peacefulness and nature here in the Glemstal. Then I reach the market square. My tour to Athens is done. I'm back safe and well. It will be a few more days before I've got my mind back to everyday life after this tour.
If you want to read more about my cycle trip, then take a look at the diary. It tells you how many kilometres I cycled each day, what the weather was like, what experiences and impressions I had along the way and what impressed me.
