Tour of France - 2020 -- 1st chapter - preparation

Planning the route is very important for such a long bike tour. The Eurovelo project of the EU supports this very well with maps that can be downloaded from various sites on the Internet as GPS-compatible data. After my negative experience with the Garmin GPS device during the tour of Ireland and Scotland (the device failed because of a software error) I also store all tour data on the smartphone. So I always have a backup system. The Garmin GPS device has been replaced in the meantime. The old device could no longer be used and unfortunately all track recordings were lost. To process all tracks and data twice consumed a lot of time. Since I start this tour directly in front of my door, the search for tickets for train, ferry etc. is not necessary.

I also have to admit that it is something very special for me to start at my own front door and also arrive there again without using any other means of transport. This is not always possible (due to time constraints). After the preparation of the tour navigation is finished I take care of my bike "Speedy" and the luggage trailer "Bobby". My faithful companions need new tires, fresh brake pads and a check if all screws are still tight after the last tour through Ireland and Scotland was already very challenging for the material.

In addition, I organize with the caregiver of my mother how she can reach me or my sister and the nursing service.

Sometime the moment comes for the last email in the Office Home and the last phone calls to THW. I don't fly to the moon, but I also use my bike rides to get away from the daily routine, at least for a while. If I'm going to be working on emails every evening and participating in conference calls during the day, I'd better stay home!

Everything is ready, the bag from the Bobby is bulging again, my backpack is full of food.... Ready to go.

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 2 - On the road to France

Day 1 Leonberg - Bochingen

The track brings me out of Leonberg in a westward direction to the city district Silberberg. I have let a route planner define the route. I was just going to drive a different track for the way to Calw, as I know it so far. A big mistake!! Because I have again used the same route planner, as the for return trip from Ottenbronn last week. This route planner probably uses the setting "use the most shitty route". Because again and again the route planner took tracks that actually no longer exist. The tracks end somewhere and I have to turn around. Or it climbs so steeply that I have to dismount and push. With the heavy equipment that' s not so easy. Finally I made it to Calw. But that took much more energy than I had expected. In Calw I activate the next track. The Heidelberg-Black Forest-Lake Constance route. I know parts of the route well, because I've ridden it many times when I visited my sister in the Black Forest. In Wildberg I make a short rest. Then I continue to Nagold. The next stop is Horb. Shortly before Horb a thunderstorm comes up and starts to rain very hard with heavy lightning and thunder! I find no shelter between the farm fields and get soaked completely. Of course, I immediately changed into my rain gear. But in the heavy rain nothing remains dry. Fortunately I find a barn a little later. Here I shelter. I use the time and search for an overnight stay. I planned to spend the night in Horb on the camping site. But after the rain I decide to stay in a solid shelter instead of the tent. I search the Internet for accommodations. In Horb there is nothing. I have to continue to Oberndorf. Here's for 60 euros the cheapest thing I could find nearby. The weather will be better tomorrow and then I sleep in the tent.

The thunderstorm is gone. The rain stops and I can ride on. There is still thunder above the Black Forest. After a few kilometers I reach Horb. I have already been here from time to time with the bike. This time the track does not lead along the Neckar but takes a different route. It first leads uphill for a long distance. Exhausting but well because I felt very cold after the rain. Finally I reach Bochingen near Oberndorf. Here I get something to eat and drink for dinner and then continue to the apartment. After having a warm shower, a delicious dinner and a beer, I tiredly fall into the bed. 

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Day 2 Bochingen - Böhringen

The next morning I get up at 6:30. Outside the sun is shining. Great! This will surely become a beautiful day. But it is still quite cold. I gather my stuff, have breakfast, take care of the diary and some other technical things, brush my teeth and prepare for the second day of my trip.

At 8:30 a.m. I leave. It is quite cold. After a few meters of climbing I can take off the warm cycling clothes. The tracks are good to cycle. I can see the big tower of Rottweil in the distance. The first highlight of the day is the Neckar spring "Neggerquelle" in Schwenningen. I have been there before. But each time I am amazed at how small the Neckar actually starts. While I am standing at the spring a group of cyclists passes by. It continues to Donaueschingen. There I have to make a forced break, because it has begun to rain heavily. After half an hour I ride on. Slowly I leave the Black Forest. It climbs up to the Fürstenberg. The view over the whole area is a pleasure, thereafter it steeply descends on the other side of the mountain.

My left knee is giving me a bit of trouble right now. I exaggerated it uphill this morning a little bit and went up the mountain in high gear with a lot of power. That was probably a little too much power, because it hurts. It's not the joint but a muscle that hurts. I really hope that it will become better over night. Shortly before Radolfzell I have to change the track in the GPS device. I check the overnight stay tonight. Here at the Lake Constance should be countless campsites. But unfortunately there are none. Not around here. There is only one small campground nearby. But I like it. I pitch my tent. After a pleasant shower I sit down in the beer garden and enjoy the evening. What I don't like is the big black rain wall coming closer and closer on the horizon. I reach my tent just in time before the thunderstorm starts. I make myself comfortable and go to sleep early. 

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Day 3 Böhringen - Laufenburg

I crawled into my sleeping bag quite early last night because I was tired and there was nothing else to do while it was raining all night. During the night I was sweating like hell in my sleeping bag. And that, although I had only covered the sleeping bag across me. I removed the sleeping bag as much as possible from my legs and from the upper body. Then it became better. Unfortunately, I didn't sleep so well. I have to honestly admit that my back or anything else hurts on the hard ground. That's not possible! When I wake up it is already morning. It is 7:30 o'clock. Time to get up. I take my bike and ride to the restroom building. Then I have a cozy breakfast and start the day little by little. Actually I wait for the sun to dry my tent. But this will probably not happen. I do some muscle training, brush my teeth and then put on my cycling clothes. The jogging loop is cancelled until further notice.

I am curious about what the day will show me today.

Yesterday evening I decided to make a small change to the track. The track would originally run in a large arc along Lake Constance. But I want to economize the kilometers. I plan to rejoin the track at the end of the arc. However, this means that I have to cycle back a few kilometers to a junction where I left yesterday. A little later I pass the border to Switzerland. But there is nothing special to see here except a sign. No Corona control etc. I take a few pictures and ride on. Soon I am back on the original track. It leads me to Schafhausen to the Rhine Falls. In Schafhausen a heavy thunderstorm forces me to take a break, because I don't like to wear the rain gear. The rain stops and I ride on. However, the joy doesn't last long. Very soon rain starts again. Well, now it is probably time for the rain gear! Because of the heavy rain there are only a few visitors around the Rhine Falls. Then I ride on to Waldshut-Tiengen. A beautiful route despite the constant rain. From time to time the rain stops briefly. But as soon as the rain gear has dried, the next thunderstorm rolls in. Behind Waldshut-Tiengen the route follows the Rhine again. The tracks consist of gravel and sand. I have the impression that I can almost hear how the chain and sprockets wear out due to the sand in the gears. I want to ride to Bad Säckingen today. But the rain is getting to be too much for me. In the meantime it is past 5 pm. I search the Internet for accommodations near Bad Säckingen. There are some, but they are partly very expensive. Because of Corona, many accommodations are closed. In Laufenburg I find an overnight stay just a few kilometers away. I book a room and arrive about half an hour later. There is a dry place for the bike and the Bobby. To dry I spread out my clean things in the room. This is because somehow almost everything has become wet today. The wet rain clothes get into the shower and afterwards into the room for drying, too. I hope that I can pack the clothes tomorrow morning and I no longer need rain gear. After I have showered I walk to the nearby supermarket. I buy food for dinner and provisions for tomorrow, as well as milk for breakfast. Then I lie down on the bed and massage my knee. Because that is still thickly swollen. I don't like that at all! Despite Ibuprofen and ointment it does not improve.

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Day 4 Laufenburg - Mulhouse (F)

I wake up at 7:30 and start the day. My knee is still thick. Damn!!!

I look outside and I can' t see any of the beautiful weather. The sky is full of clouds. Fortunately, it's not raining! I have breakfast (because of Corona no breakfast is allowed in the accommodation) and finish my diary from yesterday. After that, I want to leave quickly.

That was at least the plan. But when I left it was already 10:45 o'clock. But one by one...

First I soak my muesli (I love muesli that is soaked for a long time!) and walk to the bike to do the technical service. I just didn't feel like doing that last night. Also, the fine sand is much easier to get rid of when it is dry. I have to fiddle a lot of sand out of the chain and sprockets. After that, without sand in the gears, the shifting sounds much better again. Now it's time for breakfast. I soak a second plate full of muesli and use the time to pack up my stuff. Where has the time gone? It is already shortly before 10 o'clock?!? Now I really have to hurry! Hm, no! It is my vacation and the lady from the room service is still busy with another room. I pack up in calm, get Speedy and Bobby out of the garage, stow my luggage, then I ride on. The track runs along the banks of the Rhine. Very nice. It is easy to ride. My left knee is cooperating. After a few kilometers I meet a cyclist who is on the road with a trailer and his dog. Stefan is his name. He' s been on the road for 10 years. Wow! Respect! We ride together for a short distance until he takes a break together with his dog. We use the time and talk very long. He is a very interesting and intelligent person. He has chosen his way of life and gets along very well. That somehow impresses me. There is certainly a lot to talk about. But I want to ride on. I still have a few kilometers to go today. I take 20 Euro from my wallet and give it to Stefan. It was certainly the best invested 20 Euro, I have spent for a long time. Then I ride on. Bad Säckingen, then Rheinfelden. Sometimes I drive through Switzerland for a while, then back to Germany. In Weil am Rhein I finally cross the border into France. The track to Mulhouse almost exclusively leads along a canal. This track was well maintained and so I could make proper progress. At about 5 p.m. I arrived in Mulhouse. There is a campground in Mulhouse. All other campgrounds are too far away, or are not at all near the track. I really want to dry out my wet tent today. Because that has been completely wet in the tent bag for a few days now. Although I would liked to have gone further I decide to stop after only 95 kilometers for today. The signs to the camp site couldn't be overseen and it would have been stupid to give up a safe overnight stay on this camp site. I register at the reception, look for a nice place, put up my tent and take a shower. 

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 3 - "Go West" - The route through France

Day 5 Mulhouse - Besançon

The next morning I get up in the shortly before 7 o'clock. I plug the powerbank into the mains for charging. Overnight I have charged the GPS device and the smartphone in the tent. Right now my muesli is soaking. Now I only need the sun to dry the tent from dew and condensation, then I can ride on. After the second plate of muesli I am really fed up. I gather my things, do some more muscle training and prepare for today's tour. I fill my bottles with water, drink plenty of water and then hit the road. The track out of Mulhouse leads along a canal. The Rhine-Rhone Canal. The track is more or less completely flat. Only by looking at the water locks along the way can I determine whether the track is climbing or descending. Quickly it becomes clear, it climbs. But that is practically not to be noticed. So today "happy cycling" is in the air. Apart from the many people who are also on the track. Since I am not a careless cyclist, I usually drive very carefully passing the slower cyclists. Awful are the cyclists with electric drives. For some reason they basically think that no one is faster than them. You could really think the generation "toilet paper on the hat rack" has switched from the car to the electric bike. Because even ringing the bell does not always work, unfortunately, my respect finds certain limits at some point. After about 40 kilometers the frequency of the water locks increases very much and with it also the climb. Well, still no climb compared to the routes in Ireland. Pretty much around noon I reach the transition to another bike route. From here it leads in about 10 or 20 kilometers to the twin town of Leonberg, Belfort. But I don't want to go there, I just follow the Eurovelo 6 in the direction of Besançon. Let's see how the route continues. There is a lot of forest around here. Actually, it's like the Black Forest or maybe along the Rhine. At some point, unfortunately, the "happy cycling" will surely come to an end and the hard work will begin. It is too flat to be true. Hardly said, already it happens. The track leaves the channel and it goes straight uphill. Now I realize that it has become quite warm in the meantime. Well, that' s it with the easy day. However, it turned out not to be that bad. After this climb the track soon returned to the canal. Quite fast I made the 100 kilometers today, which I have set as a minimum. Starting from this limit I make a short break regularly every 25 kilometers. During the last break I checked for an overnight stay at a campground. The next campground is about 15 kilometers away. But honestly, that is still too early for me. I would like to ride on a bit more. Besançon would really be possible today. There is also a campground in that area. Wonderful, then the matter is clear and I ride on.

Maybe a few words about the route. It is very easy to cycle. The landscape is really beautiful! I am very happy about this route! Because of my joy about the beautiful landscape and the beautiful easy to drive route, I unfortunately pass the turnoff to the campsite. But I realize this just when I check my smartphone in Besançon. Damn! Once again not paid enough attention! I knew that the campsite is outside the city. I remembered, however, that it is located beyond the city and not in front of the city. I would now have to drive back certainly 10 kilometers to get to the campsite. I probably even drove past the sign with a smile on my face? Damn! Well. I check the Internet to see if there are cheap places to stay in Besançon. With 45 Euro I am in it. Well, if you are dumb, you have to pay. So I book the overnight stay in the hotel(!) and cycle to the city of Besançon.

After showering I walk to a supermarket to get milk and cookies for tomorrow and on the way back I have dinner in a snack bar. There' s still a little distance because of Corona, but masks... No, not even in the supermarket. Oh, that feels good!!! I'm getting tired of this Corona shit!

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Day 6 Besancon - to Verdun-sur-le-Doubs

When I get up at 6:30 and look outside, unfortunately my suspicions are confirmed: it's raining. Hm.... Not nice. Well, there is still a little time before I leave. I just dawdle a bit while the rain gradually stops. I copy the records from the GPS device on the smartphone, so that the data are backed up there. After everything is packed I pick up my bike from the basement of the hotel. I must necessarily oil the derailleur cable a little, because after all the rain sand has come into the derailleur and now it screeches every time when changing gears. In addition, the chain also gets some fresh oil and then we're off. First I have to cycle through town to get back to the track. Then I cycle along a canal for the whole morning. Once again "Happy Cycling"! The landscape is very beautiful again. The cliffs next to the canal rise quite steeply. In the early afternoon I reach the beginning of the Rhine-Rhone-Canal. Unfortunately, here the extremely well developed roadway comes to an end. To be honest, I would have been very surprised if it had continued like this all the way to the Atlantic coast. Nevertheless, the route is still good to cycle. Now, a large part of the route follows country roads, but they are not very busy. All in all, it goes quite well here, too. Except that you don't see much of the river anymore. Therefore you can see the endless flat landscape of central France. There are no mountains at all here, which makes cycling quite easy. So I don't want to complain at all. The highest elevations are silos for grain. Unfortunately, in between there was a problem with the track. The signs say straight ahead, the track in the GPS device says turn left. A dilemma. So far the track has always been correct, so I follow the GPS-device. Just after a few kilometers I realize that the signposts were quite new. Probably the way does not exist yet so long and therefore it is not yet registered. I set myself two markers in the GPS device and after returning I can tell this to the people who create the GPS data. When I am back on the original track I stand in front of a construction site. Shit! I guess they are redoing the track here? Shit... And now? I really have to go back a little towards the direction I just came from.

Then a traffic detour shows the further way. In the early evening I stop at a campground. This time I also pay very strict attention that I don't cycle by again. Since for today 137 kilometers are really enough. I build up my tent, take a shower, then eat dinner from the provisions and consider the further route. By tomorrow at the latest, I have to decide how I want to continue. Although the decision is actually already made. I will cycle the Eurovelo 6 further until the Atlantic coast. I will not make a detour to the Mediterranean Sea. These are too many kilometers for this tour. So it will now be a round trip through northern France.

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Day 7 Verdun-sur-le-Doubs - Paray-le-Monial

I had a great night's sleep in the tent. Honestly better than the night before in the hotel. At 6:30 a.m. I wake up because the sun is already powerfully shining on the tent. Since during the night a light wind blew and I did not completely close the tent it is completely dry. I set up the small solar panel to charge the powerbank, make myself some breakfast, then brush my teeth and want to move on quickly. My left knee has recovered. Luckily!

I have breakfast, pack my stuff, then the tent I put in the bobby, I take away the garbage, fill my bottles with water and start my way. 9am. I have not often started this early before. The track runs along a canal again. This makes riding easy, but also a bit monotonous. I definitely don't want to complain! Because this way of cycling is really fun. Nevertheless, the GPS track and the signs along the route do not always fit today. Apparently, the route was further developed and the track at the portal, from which I have downloaded the data, has not been updated. This is not so satisfying. Moreover, after lunch the course of the track changes. Now the track does not lead along the canal, but again through the backcountry. At the first detour I followed the track, although the signposting was different. This resulted in a lot of climbing. Now I really feel every kilogram of luggage that I drag behind me. Therefore the view is really quite good. The landscape reminds me of Ireland. Also many little paths that pass between meadows and forest. Very nice, that' s how I like cycling. And honestly, the few meters of climbing are really nothing compared to Ireland!

I quickly find the new track again and can avoid further climbing for the time being. But not for long. Gradually I get tired too and look around for campsites. There are a few that are very close to the track. Excellent. So I can continue for a while. I pass the next campground and decide to drive to the second campground after the next. But unfortunately this was not a good idea. As I stand quite tired after 140 kilometers at the campsite it is closed. Yes such a shit!! The next campsite is very far away and I do not want to go back. Now the Internet must look for an alternative. This alternative I find in a big old manor house. Oh wow.... The old house stood empty for 30 years and nobody wanted it. Then a family bought the house, refurbished it and now their son runs it as a hotel. Since 2019 and then Corona came. Well. For me, it's like a dream. A nice room, a big shared kitchen, a huge lounge with comfortable sofas and I am the only guest. Wow!

I unpack my luggage, take a shower and then do the laundry. I do not need to do the laundry myself. There is a washing machine and a dryer. After the washing machine is running I have dinner. I am really hungry now. Unfortunately it is already late and the restaurant in the house is closed. That' s a pity. I still have enough provisions and so I eat comfortably in the huge kitchen of the guest house. After the laundry is done I go to bed. I am really tired and somehow happy to have landed in this beautiful place. Even if a campsite would have suited so well for me!

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-06-23.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 8 Paray-le-Monial - Nevers

The next morning I find it a bit difficult to leave this beautiful place. I talk for a long time with the manager before I hook the bobby to my bike and set off. First I have to find my way back to the track through the city. The day starts with " happy cycling" as well. Along the river, lots of shade, a comfortable track.... I don't even remember when the track changed again. Away from the canal, again through the countryside. The variation is good. Only, it is incredibly hot at noon. If it then also steeply climbs up the mountain, it becomes exhausting. Accordingly, my water consumption is very high. Fortunately, I have an extra water bottle on the bobby. Nevertheless, I have to stop on a supermarket on the way and buy even more water. Sadly, the track once again does not match the signs along the route. But now this does not bother me. I follow the signs and mark the deviations in the GPS device. In the late afternoon I reach a canal again and can let it roll out comfortably on the last 30 kilometers. In Nevers I find the campground without problems. It is also open. I have already checked this on the Internet. I pitch my tent, take a shower, check my bike and then want to go shopping in town. Unfortunately, I have to realize that the supermarkets close quite early. Too early and so I walk into the city center to find some restaurants in the downtown pedestrian area. I ordered me something to eat and enjoy the evening. It's really good to sit outside, eat some food and have nothing else to do. Except writing the diary.

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Day 9 Nevers - Gien

At shortly before 7 o'clock I get up and start cozily into the day. The sun is shining and powerfully heats. I start to sweat while brushing my teeth. I drink water by the way, but it is immediately sweated out again. Boah, today it is really warm! I cycle to the reception, drink a lot of water again and fill up all my bottles. Now I have 5 liters of water with me. That should be enough for the day. The first kilometers are again "happy cycling" to warm up. After a few kilometers I reach the end of the canal. Now the track runs across the country side again. After 50 kilometers I take a longer break. This is where I get the message from Anja that Mom apparently is doing quite bad. Damn!!! That is what I don't need now. It is unfortunately now the end of "happy cycling". I am very much in thoughts and think about how to proceed with the tour. That much that I don't pay enough attention at an intersection and almost get killed by a car. Luckily the driver was paying attention and was braking very hard! A flood of swear words pours over me. What a bummer, that was close!

I decide to continue at least until the Atlantic coast. Whether I continue the tour from there I will decide there. I try to focus on the tour again. When I have done the 100 kilometer barrier I check the Internet, where I find a campground that is open. I decide to continue for a while and head for the campsite in Gien. Arrived there I look for a nice place to pitch the tent and then immediately go shopping. After I have bought (too much) things I sit down on the bench, which is right next to my tent and have dinner. That really helps. Afterwards I take care of my bike a bit. Clean the chain, check the screws and clean the sprockets. After I have typed the diary I lie down to sleep in the tent. I try to put away the occurrences of the day and to calm down. I am tired.

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Day 10 Gien - Beaugency

At shortly after 5 o'clock I was woken up by a thunderstorm. I quickly go around the tent to put the pegs deeper into the ground. In the east dusk is already setting in, while from the west the thunderstorm is coming up. Fortunately it has discharged at another place. But it rains. Around 9:30 the rain stops. I have already packed some of my things and want to hit the road. But unfortunately I lack the motivation. Is it because I have not slept well? At 10:15 o'clock I finally can start. The campground is located directly at the track. The route no longer runs along canals, but mainly on dikes of the Loire. Also yesterday. The wind is quite strong and unfortunately it has changed its direction. In the last days the wind always came from the north or northeast. That was useful. After the thunderstorm it has changed and now there is partly a strong headwind. This does not increase my motivation either. So the day is really tough. I have to force myself again and again, so that I don't stop too often and for too long. Or maybe I was just a bit overconfident to assume that I would have made the 80 kilometers to Orleans by lunch. That won't work out like this. The wind is too strong. It is already late afternoon when I pass through Orleans. Always following the Loire. After I have left the noisy city behind me, I cycle a few more kilometers until I reach a nice campsite. The evening program is almost the same every evening: pitch the tent, shower, wash clothes, have dinner and then laze around a bit before I disappear into the tent and sleep. In the distance a thunderstorm is coming up again. I hope that this discharges again somewhere else and I have a quiet night in the tent. 

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Day 11 Beaugency - Tours

At 2 o'clock I woke up, because the wind freshened up strongly. In addition, there was very strong weather glow in the sky. I prepared the tent again for a strong thunderstorm and put the pegs as deep as possible into the ground. I was lucky - the thunderstorm discharged somewhere else. In the morning the weather looks great. Hmm, unfortunately the weather changed quite a lot right after breakfast. The sun disappeared quickly behind dense clouds and the wind increased, again. I gather my bags. The tent is dry and I hit the road. Wind makes the trip today very exhausting. My butt hurts today as well. I consider taking one day of rest. Actually, the first day of rest is planned for the Atlantic coast. Right now I'm fighting against the wind, kilometer by kilometer. On top of that, the track runs along the unprotected Loire dikes and there is no shelter from the wind at all. Maybe I am just spoiled by " happy cycling" of the last days? I will not set a new kilometer world record today. I will be happy if I make at least 100 kilometers today. I decide to cycle until Tours and stay overnight in a cheap hotel. I don't want to ride in the shitty wind anymore. My ears are already hurting from the constant whistling of the wind.

The hotel is less "wow" but more "aha...". It is complicated to get into the hotel at all. The reception can only be reached by doorbell and intercom. When the door opens, I wasn't fast enough to open the second door of the entrance. There is also no place to store the bike. So Speedy (my bike) and Bobby stay with me in my room tonight. That does not bother me. Since tomorrow is Sunday and the markets are closed I have to buy provisions tonight. The GPS device leads me to the next supermarket. I take a look at the city and have dinner at a snack bar. The weather forecast announces more rain and strong wind. Damn!!!

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Day 12 Tours - Les ponts de Ce

The next morning, there' s not much wind, at least at the window of the hotel room. Hopefully I am not mistaken. I hurry to pack up my things and leave. I hook up Speedy and Bobby and ride off. Since the hotel is located directly on the track I do not have to search very long for it. Fortunately the wind has decreased. If now even the thick clouds do not immediately start to rain, it could be another day with "happy cycling". When I leave Tours and fewer people are on the bike paths I am quite relieved. I can step on the gas a bit more. It runs well. Without the wind cycling is really fun again. The route continues on dikes along the Loire. At some point the track takes again its way through the backcountry. These roads are also good to cycle. Only few potholes and good surfaces. The roads in Ireland unfortunately were not so good. Every now and then a short rain shower comes down. But nothing serious. I keep thinking of the nice older gentleman I met on one of the first campsites in Ireland. He just kept on pitching his tent. Despite rain, while I took shelter in my tent. When I carefully came out of my tent again after the rain, he stood in the rain and said this sentence, which I will probably never forget: Marten! It's just a shower!

Following this example I took the rain also with coolness. There was always enough time between the showers to get dry again. Today I want to spend the night again on a camping site and have chosen a place near Angers. Shortly before the campground I stop at a signpost. There are 99 kilometers to the finish of the first big stage in Nantes! That should be easy to reach tomorrow. After dinner I consider for a long time how I should arrange the ride tomorrow. Because Nantes is not on the Atlantic coast. From Nantes to the Atlantic coast it is another 50 kilometers. This would mean a very long stage tomorrow. The wind is supposed to get stronger again. For today I leave the decision open and will decide tomorrow when I am on the road. I am curious whether I can drive the last stage up to the Atlantic coast completely, or whether I must take a stopover at Nantes. So far, the weather looks excellent.

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Day 13 Les ponts de Ce - Saint Brevin les Pins

I set off at 9 o'clock. First the route led again along the dikes of the Loire for many kilometers today. This became boring at some point. Fortunately, the route soon changed and continued a bit away from the dikes. Originally it would be 99 kilometers to Nantes. But a few changes in the route led to an increase in length. There seems to be two variants and I apparently followed once one and then the other variant. The new route is away from the cities and not so busy. When I then stood in the afternoon in front of a closed bridge, which is being refurbished, I could have vomited. Luckily I have a map with bike paths on the GPS device. So I could quickly find an alternative. At the next chance I leave the new track and follow again the old track to Nantes. But this is very busy with bicycles. I briefly buy something to eat in Nantes and continue. I do NOT like this city. At the entrance of the city are many huge high-rise buildings. In each of the high-rise buildings certainly hundreds of families live. Housing silos. Moreover, it is very noisy in the city! I hurry to leave Nantes behind me and continue to the Atlantic coast. There are still some kilometers left to the campground. Today it will be exhausting. All in all, it will surely be more than 170 kilometers to the finish today. That is significantly more than my daily limit of 120 kilometers! It is late when I reach the campground. The reception is still open and I can search for a nice place. Afterwards I drive fast without Bobby just with the bicycle to do some shopping. It is 19:45 o'clock. The large French supermarkets have closed since 19:30. Damn!!! I incidentally see a nearby advertisement from LIDL. They are open until 8pm. Hurry up!!! When I'm back at the campsite, I pitch the Hotel Hilleberg, take a shower and make myself comfortable in the tent. Originally I wanted to sit on the beach of the Atlantic coast, watch the sunset and enjoy a beer. But it is low tide and from the Atlantic Ocean nothing to be seen far and wide. I have now completed the EuroVelo 6. Now I have followed this long-distance cycle route across Europe. To the Black Sea in 2014 and now to the French Atlantic coast. Every kilometer of it I cycled with my own power. That fills me with pride despite my sorrows.

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Day 14 Relax day in Saint Brevin

Yesterday I crawled into my sleeping bag quite late in the evening. For a long time I made plans for the next stages. I have searched a route, with which I can go as directly as possible and without a detour back to Nantes further to the north. I copied this route to the GPS device. This way the evening passed quite fast. I slept not well. I guess it was because the tour yesterday was very far and exhausting. I was sweating a lot and woke up often. I also woke up because I was very thirsty. The next time I woke up I had to go to the toilet urgently. Towards morning I had all kinds of crazy dreams. But the last dream touched me very strongly: I was riding my bicycle at a rapid pace. When the road makes a sharp bend to the right I ride straight ahead for a short distance and stop. I have a magnificent view on a beautiful river and a very nice valley. Then I follow the road further to the right and have immediately after a magnificent view of a high mountain range whose peaks were covered with snow. Everything within only a few kilometers. Better said just behind a curve. It is indescribably beautiful to be able to experience this. When I then wake up I realize that it is actually not a dream at all, I am currently cycling on my round trip through France and have actually seen all these beautiful places. I have to think of my mother, who is suffering from dementia, and how I would still wish her so many beautiful experiences like the ones I am currently experiencing. I have to cry because of that.

Today I stay here at the campsite and have a Relax day!

I enjoy breakfast at leisure and enjoy that I will have Relax day today. After breakfast I want to go to the sea, but a rain shower makes me postpone this to the afternoon. First I stay in the tent and laze around. The staff of the campsite is busy around the tent to remove leaves from the empty parking spaces. Since they are doing this with a wheel loader, the peace and quiet of the Relax day comes quickly to an end. On the other hand, they have to do their work. I grab my cycling clothes, walk to the sanitary building to wash the clothes. A message reaches me that mother is in a very bad condition and has to go to the hospital. At most far away from home. Apart from making phone calls, I can't do anything else. Even with a rental car, it would take me several days to get home. The question arises whether I should break off the tour or not. I wash my clothes, put everything up to dry and take a walk to the beach and along the sea. That feels good. All the time I think about whether I should continue or break off. At the moment I can't do much for Mom. There is a lot to organize at home now. My sister takes care of that. In the early evening I checked my bike, cleaned the chain, lubed it and had dinner. Finally I took off the laundry. The tour through France will continue tomorrow.

 

 

Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 4 - Along the Atlantic coast to the north

Day 15 Saint Brevin - Guillac

Last night I slept very badly. I woke up very often, dreamed a lot about Mom the dementia and how often I had reached the end of my power in the last few months. I woke up completely soaked with sweat. I feel like I haven't slept at all. At shortly after 6 o'clock I wake up again. I start the day. I can't and don't want to sleep anymore. I want to continue with my journey. The whole situation with mom has made me pretty exhausted tonight.

The next challenge wasn't far away: the Saint-Nazaire bridge (clearance: 61 m, total length: 3,356 m). Bicycles are allowed there, but I assume that the traffic there is certainly very dense and dangerous. I checked the day before yesterday to make sure that bicycles are allowed on the bridge. I found signs advising motorists to share. There were no signs prohibiting cyclists from using the bridge. Arriving at the bridge, I take a short break and check my bike. There should be no breakdown on the bridge! At first, the bridge runs flat across the Loire. At the places where the bridge can expand, metal sheets are mounted, so that you can safely ride your bicycle. Then comes the climb. I do not progress so fast and the higher I get, the more the strong wind pushes me to the side. Fortunately away from the roadway on which cars and trucks are passing me. Still, there is not much space. I can't afford a crash up here. The trucks drive carefully. Whenever possible the trucks change lanes to allow great distance. Great!!! Thank you!!! After I crossed the top of the bridge it goes downhill. But racing down the bridge at high speed would be very foolish because of the strong wind. I ride maximum 25 km/h. If I cycle faster the wind does with me whatever he wants. Soon I have left the bridge behind me and can leave the main road a little later. The route planner has calculated a good route last night. Starting rain provides a cooling. Sadly, it doesn't look like the rain will be over quickly. I stop and put on my rain gear. That was the right decision, as the rain became much heavier. Only around noon, when I am back on the original track, I can take off the rain gear and pack it away.

I now follow the Eurovelo 1. This follows to a large extent along the canal from Nantes to Brest. The landscape is very beautiful and very slowly I get back to brighter thoughts. My sister informed me about the status of Mom. She is doing a little better again, although that is still very very far from good and probably won't be quite good anymore. In the late afternoon I want to check the internet where I can spend the night. Today I have no desire for the tent. Unfortunately I have problems with the mobile internet. Damn! I notice how extremely dependent I have become on the Internet during such trips. When I have a signal again I find a small cabin on a camping site. I decide it would be a nice idea to spend the night in such a small cabin. One and a half hours later I am there. I hang up the rain clothes to dry, take a shower, have dinner, write my diary and go to bed early. For tonight and tomorrow rain is forecasted.

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Day 16 Guillac - Carhaix-Plouguer

The next morning thick clouds come up very quickly and the first shower doesn't wait long. Luckily there are enough trees along the route to take some shelter from the rain just under them. The rain showers usually do not last long and so I can use the time to take a short break. Until the afternoon, the track today runs along the canal from Nantes to Brest. Only in the afternoon it changes. The canal was interrupted by a reservoir. For me this means that I have to leave the track along the canal and make a exhausting climb. Then the route runs along an old railroad line. This reminds me of Scotland. The track is flat, but still always with a slight uphill. You can still see the old train stations. Today these are nice residential houses. The Bretagne is really a very beautiful area! I am quite happy to be on the road here. After I have reached the highest point of the former railroad line it runs downhill. That makes of course quite more fun than uphill. Unfortunately, the fun does not last very long. Soon the path branches off again and leads back to the canal Nantes - Brest. The paths are well developed and I make good and quick progress. The headwind is noticeable, but by far not a problem as it was a few days ago. After a little more than 140 kilometers I arrive in Carhaix - Plouguer. A bit outside the city is a campground. There I will pitch my tent tonight. It is supposed to stay dry and the weather forecast for the next days promises nice weather. These are the best conditions for a few beautiful days in the north of France. When I arrived at the campground I disconnect the Bobby and take Speedy to the supermarket. Just a few small things I want to buy. But, when I unpack the backpack back at the campsite I wonder who should eat all that food again. But I was hungry. Some fresh bread I wanted to buy and of course some cookies. I pitch my tent and go to the shower. Then there's dinner, I write the diary and gradually I get tired and want to go to bed.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-02.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 17 Carhaix-Plouguer - Locquirec

After a refreshing night I get up at 6:30 am. It is cold. It is very foggy outside. My tent reminds me of a stalactite cave. With a towel I try to dry it from the inside as good as I can. So I avoid that cold drops of condensed water drip into my neck again and again. There is no chance to pack the tent dry. So I dismount it completely soaked and start the next stage. At 9:30 o'clock I am on the way. However not directly on the Eurovelo, but on a track the route planner has suggested yesterday. Because the campsite is a bit outside and quite a bit away from the track. I cycle to a good position to return to the original route. This first runs along an old railroad line. I like these trails because they are good to cycle. But this also means that I have to cycle constantly uphill for about 15 or 20 kilometers. Then the next section is much more enjoyable, when it's downhill for the same distance. In this way, the 50 kilometers to Morlaix are done quickly. That was really great! In Morlaix I make a detour to the train station. Here I have screwed together my bike a year ago, then went to Roscoff and took the ferry from there to Cork in Ireland. Lovely memories come back of the beautiful trails in Ireland and Scotland. (No more thought of the steep climbs and the many potholes...).

Reminiscing, however, does not get me anywhere. I cycle back down to the city center. At the harbor, the road splits. Last year I drove left along the harbor, this year I continue to the right. After just a few kilometers the hard ride begins! Gone are the flat roads as far as the eye can see. It goes steeply uphill. In very low gear I work my way forward. Sometimes the wind helps a little. But unfortunately not often. The steep climbs are followed by descents where the brakes almost start to smoke. Thoughts of the tour in Ireland come up again. The Atlantic cycle track is not a simple cycle track. While the morning was still quite relaxed and in thoughts I already planned clearly longer stages, I must now say goodbye to stage plans of 150 or even 180 kilometers. After about 100 kilometers today I don't want to cycle any more. I check where campgrounds are and find that it's not far to the next campground. I also remember that I have to pitch my wet tent and to dry it. So I finish the day early, cycle to the next campground, pitch my tent in the evening sun and cycle to the next town to do some shopping. The campground is directly at the beach. It would be very nice if I could go into the sea for a swim. But nobody else is in the water. Therefore I assume that it is too cold. So I take a warm shower instead. As soon as the sun is gone, it gets cold. I plan to go to bed early anyway. I think about tomorrow and I ask myself how I will make progress. For the weekend the weather forecast predicts less nice weather again. Only the following week it is supposed to get hot.

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 5 - On the English Channel

Day 18 Locquirec - Saint Brieuc

During the night the weather deteriorated significantly. Strong wind pulled hard on the tent causing me to wake up again and again until I put earplugs in my ears. The next morning there is no blue sky to be seen. Everything is gray and it drizzles lightly. I pack my luggage in Bobby's bag, put on the backpack, hitch the Bobby to the Speedy and set off. It passes a short distance along the road, then quickly away again and continues on small paths. At first a nice path along the water. Then the track climbs a few meters in altitude and finally I'm back on an old railroad line. There will be many more meters of altitude to climb today. All in all, the stage was very nice today. Again and again the way leads to viewpoints from which I have a beautiful view of the sea. Then the track runs in the backcountry and later it follows a short section directly on the beach. The proportion of paths through the backcountry, clearly dominates. Since the wind freshens up partly very powerful I decide to spend the night in a Hotel this evening. After about 80 kilometers I check on the Internet which accommodations are possible. To Saint-Brieuc it is still a long way to go. There would be a cheap accommodation. I book the night and continue. The last kilometers of this stage are tough. I cycle again nearly 150 kilometers. I should not drive even longer. For today I am on the road for a really long time. In addition, the bike path was not so pleasant to ride. The bike path followed straight on a two-lane expressway. It felt like I was riding on the emergency lane of a freeway. In fact, it was an official bike path! At least there were signs saying it was. At the hotel I can safely store my bike and the Bobby. Only there is something wrong with the room. Apparently no one had cleaned the room since the last guest. Hmm... With 65 Euro per night it would be nice if there were at least fresh towels and bed linen. I walk to the front desk and ask the lady to take a look at the room. After she has looked at it, she apologizes and gives me another room. I unpack some of my stuff and take a shower. I think about having something to eat in town. But it' s already after 20 o'clock. I just want to write my diary and go to bed at 9 pm. Meanwhile, it is in fact already close to 22 o'clock. I am totally tired and glad not to be gone out of the hotel. I brush my teeth, check the weather forecast and then my eyes fall shut. Closing time...

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-04.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 19 Saint Brieuc - Saint Malo

The night in Saint-Brieuc was pleasant. No wind tugging at the tent all night. After I have packed my stuff together pay the hotel bill, get my bike from the storage room, assemble everything, start the GPS device and then ride off. It is Sunday and the streets in the city are not busy at all. That' s quite good. This morning I'm a bit tired and I take a wrong turn every now and then until I'm finally out of the city. The road leads across many points from which I have a beautiful view to the ocean, or it runs directly to the ocean. Each little town or village has such viewpoints and the path today passes each of these viewpoints without exception. In the meantime I have seen so much of the ocean and so many beaches that I skip one or the other detour to such a viewpoint and continue cycling. The sky is very thickly cloudy the whole day. There is light drizzle. The wind is strong again. But now as a tail wind quite pleasant. In the afternoon the drizzle turns into real rain. I get under a tree and use the time for a break. After I have done 80 kilometers I check the Internet to see what accommodations are available. A signpost indicates a distance of 20 kilometers to Saint Malo. I don't want to set a new course record every day, because my butt hurts a bit at the moment. The skin of my upper leg is rubbing against the saddle and that is quite painful in the long run. The rain keeps coming down and so I decide to spend another night in a cheap hotel. I start to wonder how the planners of the bike paths who put up that sign came up with the idea that it should be 20 kilometers to Saint Malo. That's true at best if you calculate the air line. After all I reach Saint Malo. In town I still have to cycle a long way to the accommodation. The city is large, there are many tourists here and the traffic is a mess. Good thing by bike I can avoid the many traffic jams. I quickly find the accommodation. After a warm shower I feel better. I want to have dinner in the restaurant today. Well, it became just a kebab house where I have dinner. In the restaurant next door I get myself a crêpe as dessert.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-05.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 20 Saint Malo - Mortain

I have breakfast the next morning, pack my bags and go to the bike to do the technical service. The chain has to be cleaned from sand and dirt and the mud has to be removed from the sprockets. I then oil the chain and am done. On the road, I hitch the bobby to the bike and take off. Out of the city! Soon I have reached the sea. For many kilometers the route runs along the sea always to the east. There is a strong tail wind. The wind really helps me to get ahead. Quickly the first 50 kilometers are done. I reach Mount Saint Michelle. A large church, which was built on an island at that time. Very impressive. I ask myself, how many people died during the construction of this prestigious project? The many tourists who are standing around sometimes somehow stupid and sometimes annoying bring me quickly back to reality. As the next special attraction I pass a German military cemetery from the Second World War. A very depressing place I think. I do not stay long. In the afternoon I continue again on an old railroad line. Again it is good to cycle. After about 100 kilometers I arrive at the next important junction of this tour. I do not continue eastward, but northward into the Normandy. For today only a small distance. Until I reach Mortain. Then it's closing time for the day. At the campground I pitch my tent, buy fresh provisions and have dinner. The time passes very quickly. Anyway, I'm tired and I'm sure I'll sleep well tonight.

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 6 - Through the Normandy

Day 21 Mortain - Agneaux / Saint Lö

In the morning I confer with my sister about how to proceed with Mom. She is released from the hospital, but cannot go home. Her condition is too bad.

While I am packing the bag from the Bobby, I am very much in my thoughts at home and with Mom. Nevertheless, I want to focus on my bicycle tour now. Starting from the campground, I first have to cycle a little to get back to the actual route. The route then follows the next 30 kilometers almost exclusively along an old railroad line. Very lovely. Sometimes it goes uphill, sometimes downhill. All quite relaxed and always in the shadows of big old trees. It is pleasant to cycle. Except for my solar panel, the shade of the many trees is not so favorable. After I have done the first 50 kilometers I have a rest and have lunch from the provisions. It becomes exhausting after the lunch break. The way is no longer following the railroad line. Instead, it runs through countryside. This route really leads through every valley and across every hill. What follows is a very exhausting 25 kilometers. Sometimes it runs steeply downhill, that the disc brakes already start to smoke and right after it climbs so steeply that I barely make it in the lowest gear. Nonetheless: Well done is done and I continue. The next descent down into the valley... Thankfully, the route changes again after 25 kilometers. Now the track follows a river or a canal again. I can't really tell for sure. These are again easy bike kilometers. It stays like this until the end of the stage. The stage today ends in Agneaux. That means I have cycled a little more than 110 kilometers. On the way I looked again and again in the Internet for a campground. But unfortunately there is no campground within the next 15 kilometers. Also the GPS device can' t show a campground. I search for an accommodation which is not too expensive. After having showered I ask if I can wash a few things in the laundry. I was allowed to use the washing machine and to dry the cyclist's clothes I just hang them in the evening sun. Originally, I wanted to walk to the city center and have something to eat there. But I have once again purchased too much food and I'm too lazy to walk. I take care of my diary and go to bed early.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-07.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 22 Agneaux / Saint Lö - Saint Aubin sur Mer

When I went to bed last night, it was already half past nine. I took the laundry from the clothesline and hung it up to dry in my room. I also unpacked the tent and spread it out so that it could get dry. The next days it is supposed to rain again and again. I don't know if I still want to sleep in the tent after a day in the rain, or if I prefer to look for a solid accommodation.

I dreamed. Nothing horrible. About an Avox (from the tributes of Pamen) who was very sad and introverted. I tried to convince him to let some light into his life. To open the window just a little bit. Soon color came back into his life. Then I woke up and got out of bed. I soaked my muesli, packed my bags and now want to move on even though it is very nice here. Sophie as hostess is very very friendly! That is really awesome! The farewell took a little longer, because somehow we both still had a lot to tell each other. It's a pity that there wasn't more time. Probably we would have talked the whole day. By the time I get going, it's already 10 o'clock. The first 30 kilometers are done quickly. The track runs along a river and thus always flat. I can virtually switch on cruise control and enjoy the landscape. But whenever I don't look at the road for a moment, suddenly there's a pothole through which I drive. My butt is then really pleased and the Bobby (trailer) makes true bucking jumps. Damn!!! So I must pay more attention to the road. Regrettably, after 30 kilometers the comfortable cycling is all over. The route leaves the river and now follows small roads without much traffic. The climbs are no longer so exhausting. After about 70 kilometers I arrive at Omaha Beach. The place where the allied forces started the liberation of Europe. Today it is quite a peaceful and quiet place. No comparison with the terrible slaughter that took place here at that time. However, I wondered why the soldiers had landed here in the first place. Only a few meters away from the water the terrain rises steeply. And from the height you have of course a perfect overview of the whole beach. Well... I'm not a military expert and therefore I don't care. There were numerous museums, some of them very well visited. But on the one hand I'm simply not interested in old tanks, cannons and whatever war stuff (has nothing in common with electricity...) and on the other hand there is still Corona. Even though it's actually now rather the exception to wear a mouth-nose covering when shopping at the supermarket.

After visiting Omaha Beach, the track continues through the countyside. Once again, the track wanted to visit all the sights, viewpoints in the entire area. In some cases these were big detours. I then optimized a few of these detours "out of the route". I don't cycle x kilometers to the southwest when I actually want to go to the east or northeast! Besides that, I had a strong headwind towards the southwest. Towards the east I had tail wind. With the help of the tail wind I arrived in Saint Aubin sur Mer in the late afternoon. The sky still was thick clouded and it looked like it was going to rain. Being lazy, I opted for a nice private accommodation to spend the night.

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Day 23 Saint Aubin sur Mer - Le Havre

The next day starts with a surprise. Outside was super nice weather and sunshine. In fact, I had expected rain. After breakfast I pack my bags and start the next stage. For many kilometers the track runs along the beach promenades. Good thing I was on the road early and so there were not much people. It would have been exhausting to slalom between all the people running on the bike paths. But the later the morning gets the more often exactly that happens. There are two options, brake or kill! That is really disgusting. I do not cycle on highways and wonder about the many cars that are on the road. Anyway, the day today was simply shit. Sadly, most of the track today was along busy roads, which just isn't enjoyable. Particularly the motorcycles are extremely annoying, as they sometimes rush by me at neck-breaking speed. Needless to say, with little distance and partly with such an infernal noise that I almost fell off the bike in shock. You are actually not allowed to think the following. But may the bastard with his fucking motorcycle smash on the next 40 ton truck or bridge pillar!!!! Even now I get an incredible anger when I think about these idiots! Oh well. The track made again some detours over numerous viewpoints. Towards these viewpoints it went first steeply uphill and immediately afterwards again so steeply downhill that the brakes became hot and began to screech. On top of that, there was almost nothing to see anymore from the viewpoints, because all the places with a view were meanwhile covered by noble villas with very high fences. So this was actually only altitude meters for the sake of work, since in the end I continue again on the same road as before. In the direction towards Le Havre a gigantic bridge announces itself. Oh... Will the route go across that bridge? With each kilometer, however, this becomes more and more likely. It is the Pont de Normandie. For me, this means that I'm cycling on a highway again, on which there is a bicycle lane. In fact, this is a good thing. Meanwhile it is not the first time that I do so. Otherwise I would have to cycle a big detour. If there are ferries available I don't know. At the bridge there is a structurally separated stripe for bicycles what means a little more security than on the last big bridge across the Loire. Uphill I manage only 15 km/h. The trucks are passing me with 90 km/h. But!!! The drivers take care and move to the middle lane! Thank you very much and respect! The car drivers are less careful. It was quite windy on the bridge. Also downhill I have to drive slowly to keep control so the wind doesn't push me to the side. After leaving the Pont de Normandie behind me it is not far to Le Havre. But the last kilometers are dangerous again. There is no extra stripe for bicycles. The trucks pass me, even if with distance, but at high speed. Anyway, it is not a very pleasant feeling. After a few kilometers I leave the dense traffic in the port and arrive in Le Havre. It is time to take a rest. I consider whether I should really start the Saine cycle route today. I check the Internet, if there are campgrounds nearby. But within the next 30 kilometers there is no campground. At least not on that side of the Saine, on which I am currently cycling. Hm... Not good. I would have to do lots of kilometers to reach a campground. Unfortunately, the day has gone too badly for that. Sure, with some kind of force there are still 50 kilometers possible, but when everything isn't that good anyway, it just doesn't seem necessary. I decide to check the Internet for a place to stay in Le Havre. Camping is not possible here. I choose once again a cheap hotel. I have to share the room again with Speedy and Bobby (bike and trailer), because there is no suitable shelter. (Do not worry, I do not speak with them...). After I have taken a shower I buy something to eat, take care of a few small things and quickly it is again 21 o'clock. Time to sleep.

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 7 - Along the Saine to Paris

Day 24 Le Havre - Rouen

At a little after 9:30 I start the next stage. The accommodation is close to the track. I cycle towards the Saine valley. Pretty soon I realize that it was a very good decision yesterday staying in Le Havre overnight and to not ride more kilometers. The first 40 kilometers today just run along highways and expressways. Not really attractive. There are no campgrounds anywhere. Finally, the route enters the Saine valley and shortly after reaches the Saine river. The landscape was very beautiful and the paths and roads good to cycle. In some parts, the track followed normal roads with little traffic. Until afternoon it was very enjoyable. I once had to take a ferry to cross the Saine and a little later large port facilities came into view. At first only a few container terminals, then it smelled badly from oil and riverbank was covered with huge petroleum storage tanks, which probably belonged to the petroleum industry. After the oil tank facilities, there were countless silos for grain. Not very pretty at all. But that's the way it is in the metropolitan areas of the big cities. Rouen is a very large city. The city center of Rouen was rather nice. But around it there were no nice places along the bike path. Having almost left Rouen behind me, I reach the accommodation after 132 kilometers. For today that is enough. It was a good stage. I buy some more provisions, wash some of my clothes and do the technical service on the bike. Those dusty trails are not so beneficial for the chain. From time to time the dirt needs to be cleaned off. In addition I want to clarify, where approximately I will arrive tomorrow. Until Paris it is not far. But there are not many campsites in this area.

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Day 25 Rouen - Bouconvillers

Today I continue to Paris! The weather is great. The sun is shining, but it' s quite cool. That will surely change during the day. Better than rain or storm.

I put my equipment in front of the gate to the street and just want to leave, when a neighbor speaks to me. I do not understand much, but he probably also likes cycling and has a CANNONDALE. I shall come with him. Well, why not. In his garage there is not only one CANNONDALE road bike, but several. When I try to lift one, I almost throw it overhead because it's so light. Uff.... No comparison to the weight that I' m currently moving every day. Anyway, my bike and trailer have to withstand a lot. There will certainly be numerous potholes and bumps again today.... I say goodbye and drive off. There are only a few hundred meters until I reach the track. Then I continue directly through the valley of the Saine. First of all out of the city and away from the industries. Thankfully it's Saturday so the traffic isn't so heavy. It takes about 20 kilometers until I have left the industrial buildings behind me and finally I can see nature again. In parts, the path follows the river Saine directly. Sometimes, however, also quite far away from it. Many times you don't get to see the Saine at all, because many of the properties on the banks are private property and therefore closed off. In the late afternoon I reach Vernon. Here I do a stop as planned yesterday and explore the situation for the overnight stay. There are campgrounds. But unfortunately they are very far away from the track. I want to cycle a few more kilometers today and search for other options to spend the night. Sadly, there are no campgrounds. Approximately 30 kilometers away I discover a cheap hotel. Although also a little off the track, but if planned in time, the small detour can be well inserted into the route. I don't wait long, book a room and search a suitable route thereto. This route, again, brings quite a bit of work with it. There are some climbs to ride, where I have to crank hard to get up. In the late afternoon I arrive at the place where the hotel should be. But as hard as I search, I can't find a hotel! I check the address over and over again. Everything is correct. I stand on a road at the end of the town and can see neither a sign nor a hotel. Nowhere. The GPS in the smartphone claims stiffly that I should drive another 200 meters on a dirt road, then I reach the hotel. But the only thing "there" is a small office building. Two floors, a parking lot and nothing else. No hotel. I called the phone number I found on the Internet. The answering machine answers. What a mess! Well, who would build a hotel here? Nobody needs such a thing here. But what if this office building might be a hotel after all? It's Saturday and there are cars parked in front of the building. Hmm... I cycle to that strange office building to have a closer look at it. Right at that moment someone calls back on my phone. I stop and answer the call. It's someone from the hotel. He asks me if I'm on my bike. "Yes," I say. "Then come over here I'll be waving at you!" And indeed! Someone is standing in front of the office building and waving. The boss himself. Indeed, it is a hotel. Quite new and quite big. The room is very large and there is even a bathtub in the bathroom. Awesome. So today I will enjoy a bath. Freshly bathed I have dinner from the provisions. As shopping or even a dinner in the restaurant were completely excluded here. There was nothing to be found anywhere! I do not mind, because my last purchase was very opulent in terms of cookies. And after all, I have no problem eating a few cookies and peanuts after a good dinner of bread and cheese. This evening I plan my stay in Paris. I will be in Paris tomorrow in the early afternoon. I definitely want to do a little city tour there by bike. I note the most important sights in the GPS. Then it's time for bed. It's already half past nine again...

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Day 26 Bouconvillers - Paris

I am very much looking forward to Paris. Even if there are certainly many people on the road again and very dense crowds. Corona is still not defeated! I will better visit most of the sights in Paris walking. At least without the trailer. So I can more easily sidestep the pedestrians. But first I have to get there! It's still a few kilometers to Paris!

Breakfast today is cookies and other food from the provisions.

After breakfast I set off. I carry my bags downstairs and want to leave the hotel. But the exit door is locked. Hmmm Weird.... Even though this is an escape route...?? Luckily there was a separate entrance for the night time. Here the door could be opened and I get outside. I suppose there is no one in the hotel except me. Strange. I get my bike from the storage room, put the bag in the bobby and I'm ready to go. I just hope that the big gate in the entrance is not locked as well. I can open it and set off on my way to Paris. I first have to drive about 12 kilometers until I reach the track again. On this beautiful Sunday morning this is no problem. It is still a bit chilly, but that will certainly change quickly. Along the way, I notice that many grain fields have already been mowed. Barley and wheat are already cut. The harvest is in full progress. Again and again I see trailers parked at the fields, waiting to be filled by the harvester. To me, the mowed grain fields are always a sign that the summer has reached its zenith or actually already passed it. Oh, these were always wonderful times with my relatives in the north of Germany, when I was allowed to spend many summers there in the farms as a little boy. I think with pleasure of it!!! Those times have shaped me very much.

And now back to the tour of France. I arrive at the track and enjoy the nature. But soon I notice that the area becomes more and more urban in character. The paths along the Seine are very populated today. Sure, it's Sunday, there are lots of people on the road who want to get out of the city into the countryside. I see many bicycles and the closer I get to the cities, the more pedestrians and joggers come along. I have to cycle really slow because people often don't hear the bike bell because they wear headphones. In addition, the pedestrians and joggers suddenly sidestep a pothole every now and then without looking around first. This brings me from time to time quite in trouble to avoid an accident. I already cycle much slower and also very carefully. Sadly, two joggers had some bad luck. They probably assumed that there was only one bicycle coming from behind. That a trailer is attached to the bike they then noticed...

Oh, I think I am going into too much detail.

Even if I reached the first suburbs very early, there are still some kilometers to Paris. After all then the Eiffel Tower appears in the distance in front of me. The track ends at the cathedral of Notre Dame. Well, or rather in front of what is still standing of it after the fire. It's a huge construction site and I'm sure it will take a long time until the cathedral is as big and beautiful as it once was. Still, it is an impressive building. What I liked less was the crowding in front of and around the cathedral. Luckily, I was with my bike and bobby and was able to get a bit of distance from the people. It seems, that I was the only one, who was concerned about Corona. All the other people were squeezing tightly around the cathedral. I tried to get out of here as quickly as possible, as I felt uncomfortable with the crowding. My next stop was the Eiffel Tower. Wow!!! That's pretty awesome what they built at that time. So many little details. You don't usually see that on the photos. I am really very impressed. Moreover, I am of course also proud that I have made it all the way here by bike. After I left the Eiffel Tower behind me I cycle to the Arc de Triomphe. This was enough sightseeing for me today. I'm really tired and want to go to the hotel. The small hotel is unfortunately not prepared for guests who travel by bike. The reception man is confused somehow. Nevertheless, very friendly and trying to find a solution. Thanks to Corona there is no breakfast in the hotel and so I can leave bike and trailer in the small breakfast room. Great! I do another small walk in the neighborhood of the hotel. After all, I want to see some of Paris.

One thing really touched me today. This must be written here. On my way to the center of Paris, along the Seine, I passed one or perhaps two small tent cities. There must have been 200 or more of these small cheap tents that you take to a festival weekend and afterwards throw away, because they are simply useless. The tents were standing close to each other on the banks of the Saine. There were people in front of, next to and behind the tents who somehow lived there, or rather camped there. People from Africa, who pass the day there somehow. People who really exist, but about whom no one seems to care. It seems that they simply do not exist. But they are there! This is what it looks like, the Europe of 2020. Well.... Have a good night!

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Tour of France - 2020 -- Chapter 8 - Champagne and Grand Est

Day 27 Paris - Vandières

I soaked my cereal and meanwhile started packing up my stuff. Took down the laundry, packed up the temporary laundry line, and so on. Brush my teeth thoroughly and then off I go. Ahead of me lies the road to the East. Towards home. That is another 700 kilometers. Another long way to go. But with every day it's at least 100 kilometers less.

I take my things down to the sidewalk, hand back the key, hitch the Bobby to the bike, and ride off. The route leads out of Paris. The roads are well maintained. It passes along a canal again. It would be fantastic if I could make good speed in the next few days and cycle home on very well developed, flat bike paths. So much about wishful thinking, since after about 30 kilometers the path changes quite drastically. The signs again indicate a completely different route than the track in the GPS device. This would not be for the first time. After a few kilometers, usually the one, as well as the other route led back to each other. This time, unfortunately, that is not the case. Not only that someone obviously made a lot of effort to remove all signs along the old route, the person also spent a lot of time and money to put up " No passing allowed" signs. But these signs do not seem to interest anyone. Many cyclists follow the same route as suggested by my GPS device. Then, it can not actually be so wrong as I cycle. In the beginning the way was still reasonably good to cycle. But soon it became stonier and stonier and the potholes became larger and larger. As if no one had taken care of the road for a very long time. I can still cycle without the need to dismount and push. But a little later the brushwood became more and more dense. I could only move forward at a snail's pace. If I had gone faster, my bike would probably have broken in two pieces. I don't even want to mention the bumps that the Bobby has been making on this pothole track for many kilometers. It cannot continue like this. The road is not drivable for a touring bike with trailer. I search in the map for another way and find fortunately an alternative. In a travelogue of a touring cyclist a track is available as a download. I downloaded this data from the Internet, took a close look at the track and decided to follow this route. The track now runs on country roads. The traffic is not heavy. Of course, it would certainly be nicer to cycle along the Marne than on a country road. From time to time I keep an eye out for the track along the Marne. For it is nicer at the river than to suffer on the country road in the sun. Today it was very warm. Despite the bad track in between I made good progress. Until the afternoon I have already driven 140 kilometers. Since I want to go home gradually. In the late afternoon I look for an accommodation. I would like to camp on a campground again. As I am driving through the Champagne region, camping on a vineyard would be something really special. I discover a nice campground in a vineyard or a Champagne, as they call it here. After dinner I make myself comfortable in front of the tent and enjoy the evening sun. The Champagner was unfortunately offered only in bottles. A bit much for one evening. So it was water for dinner with a few cookies for dessert. After the technical service on the bike it's time to sleep.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-13.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 28 Vandières - Bar-Le-Duc

I am a bit impatient at the moment. Personally, I'd love to do the entire route home in one day. Of course, that's not possible. I have to take myself together a bit to finish the trip in peace and piece by piece. After paying for the overnight stay, I set off. Already in the next village I arrive at the original track. The GPS device shows me that the bike path continues along the Marne Canal. I decide to give the original track another chance. This time it was a good decision, since the track followed comfortable and beautiful paths along the Marne Canal. Sadly, after lunch, that changed. Once again the markings disappeared and the flat and smooth race tracks of the last 60 kilometers became quite bumpy paths. Maybe I was just spoiled? Even the less well-maintained paths were rideable. Although not always easy, because they were completely overgrown with brushwood in some places. In between there were unfortunately sections that were closed. Great.... In the middle of nowhere there is a sign claiming that the road is closed. Hmm... I decided to take my chances and followed the fresh tire tracks of some bicycles. In fact the path was not closed. I ignored the next sign politely and the second sign as well. There was not a single construction site on a stretch of 15 kilometers. Obviously the way was freshly constructed or renewed. Then the next sign said "closed due to construction site". Yes, yes.... Thanks! F*** You. And I passed this stupid sign briskly. After a couple of kilometers a cyclist came towards me. This time, apparently, there is actually no further way to go because a bridge is blocked. That' s not good. Should I really make a detour of numerous kilometers now? I decide to continue cycling to see what is actually going to happen at the bridge. And this time it's actually true. Closed, because the bridge is being renovated. Next to the bridge there is a narrow footbridge. But the bridge has only a few meters and so I take the bobby off the bike, carry everything across the short, small footbridge, hitch the bobby back to the bike on the other side of the bridge and ride on. I really have experienced worse. The way did not become better, but also not worse. While I am looking for an accommodation for the night in the afternoon it starts to rain. Perhaps no camping tonight? The weather forecast announces bad weather for the night and tomorrow. In the evening I finally arrive at my accommodation in Bar-Le-Duc. I want to do some shopping. But the supermarket is closed. At 17 o'clock? What is that? It' s the 14th of July today. A national holiday in France. The end of the Revolution. Oh...? Well, I guess there will be no cereals for breakfast tomorrow morning.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-14.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 29 Bar-Le-Duc - Varangeville

It is 6:30 am. I start the day. There is no muesli today. But bread, cheese and chocolate. I say goodbye, carry my bags into the garage, load the Bobby, hitch it to the bike and set off. Yet after a few hundred meters I make a stop to buy provisions for the day. Yesterday there was nothing to buy because of the national holiday. In the end I reach the track again and follow it for the next 30 kilometers along a canal. On good paths with beautiful views of the Vosges.

https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogesen

Cycling like this is really a pleasure. I'm so lost in thought and concentrated on the landscape that I don't even look at the GPS device and therefore don't see that I should have made a turn a few kilometers ago. Hm, damn! I have unfortunately assumed that the entire day would continue so beautifully. I backtrack a few kilometers and leave the bike path along the canal. The route climbs up into the Vosges Mountains. In my mind's eye, I see the cookies I ate earlier gradually dissolving into nothing. The energy has to come from somewhere to get up the mountains. Despite all the effort, the scenery was really gorgeous. In addition, there was very little traffic. In general, there doesn't seem to be much going on here. The villages are unfortunately quite run down. Too bad, in such a beautiful area. The next 30 kilometers, the route runs through very poorly populated area. After a total of 70 kilometers, the route changed again significantly. Now the route runs along highways and country roads until I reach the Moselle. I was honestly quite surprised when I suddenly stood at the Moselle. Well, Geography hadn't interested me so much in school, unfortunately. The route follows the Moselle a few kilometers through beautiful nature reserves. The landscape is really very beautiful. Almost impossible to capture with photos. You really have to see it yourself. Finally I reach a canal again, which follows the route. I don't even remember the name of the canal and where I came across it. There are countless of such canals in France. In the past, these were certainly very important for the transport of goods. Nowadays nobody needs them anymore, because they have been replaced by trucks. What a pity.

The route to Nancy is really stretching. In fact, I don't have to go directly to Nancy, but pass it in the south. I search for campgrounds. Unfortunately there are only very few. The nearest campground is too far away for me. If I would go there, it would be another 150 kilometer stage. I don't want to do that today. A cheap guest house then becomes the place to stay for the night. In the town I buy provisions for tomorrow and milk for my cereal. In the evening I have another look at the route for the next days. Beyond Strasbourg the track makes a turn to the south. This means Strasbourg would be a 55 kilometer detour for me. So I search for another route, which leads me back to Germany. I would like to cycle to Iffezheim tomorrow. The route via Pforzheim and onward home I know by heart. This completes the planning for the last stages. 

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-15.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 30 Varangeville - Haguenau

I packed up my bags after breakfast and set off once again. The next 50 kilometers the route was on very good trails along a canal. The landscape was again outstandingly beautiful. Wonderful to be on the road in such a beautiful landscape. The only worry for me are the very dense clouds. So far, fortunately, it has remained mostly dry except for some light drizzle. Around noon the track leaves the route along the canal. The drizzle has meanwhile turned into heavy rain. "It's just a shower", I thought to myself for a while and decided to go without the rain gear. When I am completely soaked and frozen I make a lunch break in a small village at a roofed bus stop and put on my rain gear. Right when I have dressed everything and finished my break, the rain subsides. I stay in the rain gear because I am really cold. Later in the day I reach the Marne - Rhine Canal again. The way leads to a gigantic water lock. Normally the water locks I have seen so far along the canals overcome a height difference of 2 to 3 meters. This lock overcomes 15 meters of height! It is a huge construction. Just now two ships are being lowered into the lock. Needless to say, I take a look at this. After the rain has stopped completely I reach the "valley of the locks". So or similar it is written on the signs along the way. I am amazed how many locks follow each other within short distances. Unfortunately, the channels are dry. Apparently there is a new canal, even with a tunnel, which the ships use nowadays. I continue through "The Valley of Locks". Many means of transport squeeze through the narrow valley here. Besides a road and the canal, there is also a railroad line. The Canal crosses this Railroad line partly on bridges. The architects of that time really showed all their skills here. Having left the valley of the locks behind me, I reach Hagenau after 40 kilometers. There I finish the bicycle trip for today at a campground. Although it looks very much like rain I absolutely want to spend the night again in the tent. To speak in German with the receptionist at the campground was a little weird today. During this trip I was surprised again and again how few people speak English in France. I hardly spoke German with anyone during my trip.

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-16.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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Day 31 Haguenau - Leonberg

Today is the last day of my bike trip. The last stage. At least 120 kilometers are still to ride home. I put the wet tent down, as unfortunately it rained again and again during the night. This morning my tent once again equals a stalactite cave. I filled my water bottles, hitch the bobby to the bike and set off. First the route leads to the city center of Hagenau. The sky is heavily covered with clouds. I'm curious when the rain will start again. Wherever possible, the route leads along well-maintained bike paths. After about 35 kilometers I have reached the "border" to Germany. Near Iffezheim, the route leads across an old railroad bridge that has been converted into a road. A little later I reach Rastatt. I follow the B3 for many kilometers. It continues to Ettlingen and then out of the Rhine Valley and up into the Black Forest. A beautiful route leads to Pforzheim. From there I cycle towards the Würm and continue through the Würm valley. I know the Würm valley well from my bike tours through the Black Forest. At about 17 o'clock I arrive in Leonberg. There is really time for my well-deserved wheat beer on the market place. I sit down at a table, order a cool wheat beer and enjoy every drop. Finally, it's time for the last few meters towards home.

The beautiful flower bush in the tub in front of the house is dead. No one has watered it. A shame. I unhitch the Bobby, carry the bag into the garage and close the garage gate behind me. Herewith this bike trip is over. Nobody is at home now except me. My Mom meanwhile has gone to a nursing home and her caregiver left last week. Out. End of story. From now on I have to find my way alone in a new everyday life, which is no longer determined by the care of my mother.

But not before tomorrow. Tonight I drink beer, listen to loud music and still have my mind on the road.

Or already again?

{gpxtrackmap}/frankreich_2020/2020-07-17.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap}

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