After we had seen Christchurch with its partially heavily damaged houses, had admired the chocolate waterfall at Cadbury in Dunedin, it was really time to get a taste of nature in New Zealand.
Our next stage of the round trip led Daniel and me to Te Anau. With a shop stopover in the southernmost city of New Zealand (Invercargill) we reached Te Anau. The starting point and end point of our first "big" hike in New Zealand. Daniel and I had decided to go on the Kepler Track, because this is one of the southernmost hikes and at the same time large parts of the trail are in the rainforest. And it was especially the rainforest that we wanted to see. We had not quite considered the reason why rainforest is called rainforest. That there was sometimes some rain, was to be expected. But we've got it quite well.
I was curious to know the rainforest. The trees and the plants. The plants and the trees that enter into a symbiosis and each one benefits from the other. The climate also surprised me. So close to the South Pole one should not confuse the term "rain forest" with "tropical" rainforest. For part of our way lay snow. And also it was already partially sensitive cold.
After the long bus trip from Dunedin to Te Anau we set up our tent for the first time at a small campsite. I was happy to finally be able to spend the night in nature. That is why we have finally come to New Zealand! The next morning it was only a short walk to the starting point of the Kepler-Track. Daniel and I have asked ourselves all the time at the breakfast, as the Kiwis do well with the control of the bookings. You have to "book" the hike at the "Department of Conservation" (DOC) before you can start at all. Maybe someone really is at a gate and checks the names and bookings?
But far from it. There is no one…
So we just run on it. The Kepler track is well signposted. The duration up to the individual huts is also described. So nothing can go wrong. There is no need for maps (I do not know whether we had anything at all. Maybe printouts from the Internet?)
As expected, nature is very impressive in the rainforest. On narrow paths it goes between man huge ferns, which I know from home only as tiny room plants. Amazing also the plants, which grow on the trees. There must be a lot of rain here so that they can exist. As soon as the thought was expressed it was also to dribble. Well, rain forest. The rain grew stronger, and with increasing altitudes, the rain gradually passed through snowy streams and finally snow. Well frozen, we reach the first hut. Our daily goal. The large living room was well heated and many hikers were already busy with cooking. After a comfortable evening with a few nice female travel mates from all over the world, we went to sleep and the well-aerated dormitory. In the night I closed the zipper of my down sleeping bag for the first time. It was really cold!
Unfortunately the weather was pretty bad the next morning and it was not clear for a long time whether we could continue our hike because of avalanche danger. However, the dense fog has made the work of the avalanche experts impossible. Too low visibility for the helicopter. For us, this meant initially that we could continue our hike, but of course also meant: also no visibility. Too bad. Ranger Pat has made every effort to explain exactly what we are missing right now during the first stretch of the road. The old slit ear!
The path leads down into the valley and the weather got better. So we could admire on the further hike numerous beautiful waterfalls and other natural sceneries. At night, only a completely love drunk Kiwi bird annoyed. During the courtship, the boys are able to draw attention to their lonely heart very loudly and very passionately. Very much to the suffering of noise-stricken big city inhabitants, which simply want to have their rest at night ...
However, every place and cottage in New Zealand has its very special beauty. By far one of the most beautiful evenings was the camp fire at Lake Manapouri. If after a beautiful hiking day a refreshing bath in the lake waits for you and then a campfire on the beach, then the world is at this moment already perfect!
After a few really nice days in the nature of the Fjordland National Park we return to Te Anau. Full of impressions we set up the tent at the campsite before we leave next day on the way to Queenstown. The city where the bungee jump was invented.
Queenstown is probably the outdoor mecca par excellence. Everywhere there are some fun sports activities offered. Everywhere lure the craziest adventures. And mountain bikes everywhere. On every corner you can borrow a nice Fully for a few NZL. And because I'm already badly on withdrawal, that must be natural. Daniel and I simply decided one day separate ways to go, because he is not for biking to win. I'm looking for a nice bike in a shop, get me a map and then it can start. Oh, how wonderful, finally, to be on the road with the bike again and feel the driving wind. The first bike park is not long in coming, so there is only one round on really great trails. A few laps I turn there, but it pulls me further out of Queenstown. I just want to drive a bit to the back country and explore the area there. In the meantime, it starts to rain, but that does not bother me until I'm completely wet. No matter, but slowly it will be time to return to Queenstown.
Our next stage takes us to the great glaciers of New Zealand: Fox and Franz-Josef. We definitely want to go on a glacier walk (guided of course ...!). After some consideration, we decided that we would undertake the hike at the Franz-Josef Gletscher and walk around the fox just a little. The Fox can be reached from the backpacker on foot and we visit a few viewpoints, from which one has a great view of the giant Fox glacier. The view really makes you hungry for the glacier walk at Franz-Josef.
We book the hike through an agency. There is almost all the equipment you need (or not) to spend a day in the glacier. From shoes to ice claws. I do not like shoes on loan, I take a backpack from the people, because I did not want to take my big backpack with me. So much food I finally do not carry with me. The guide "Chris - The Avatar" tells us once, how the ice - claws are fastened, then it goes up into the ice.
After the beautiful days on the Abel Tasman Track to the north of the South Island, it is now for us to leave of the South Island and take the ferry to the North Island. From Nelson we take the bus to Picton. From there the ferry leaves for Wellington.
The crossing is very quiet. There is hardly any wind and sea. So there is a lot of time left to let the landscape of the South Island pass by on deck. Everywhere lush green meadows, intermittent rugged rocks. But by and by the South Island disappears in the haze and the ferry takes course on Wellington. Now I am already curious what the North Island has to offer. But somehow my judgment (perhaps a little hasty) is fixed: As beautiful as on the South Island it can NOT be.
Wellington "The windy city" also makes its name for its name. When we arrive is a very strong wind. The weather is not inviting, so we spend a whole (rain) day at Te Papa, the New Zealand National Museum. The museum is huge and nevertheless very exciting. Also for children is offered something here and so this day also very busy there. With a small guided tour, we get an overview of the museum and then go on a discovery tour. In the evening I am quite groggy.
Because big cities are only of limited interest, we are already on the next day on the way to Wairoa. There we want to go to the Waikaremoana track. An inland hiking trail that is not so famous. After an overnight stay at the campsite in Wairoa, a shuttle takes us to the starting point of the track. The journey takes almost two hours and really goes very deep inland. There are no paved roads here. When we set off in the middle of nowhere, I have some doubt as to whether the driver would actually pick us up here in a few days or not.
The way is very stressful. For a few hours it is only uphill. With a packed bag of provisions in the backpack, things do not get any easier. High steps and partial high-rise roots require a lot of concentration, so as not to stumble. When we arrive at the hut in the evening, thick fog mounts very soon and it becomes very cold. Fortunately, there is a stove. Daniel and I take care of the fire, which is welcome by the rest of the guests and they are busy with the wood procurement.
The next day starts cool, but compensates with many beautiful pictures from nature. The highlight of the day is a lake directly at the campsite. The water is half-warm and invites you to bathe, which is after the sweaty rise uphill of yesterday really a nice thing. A round swim and then lie to dry in the sun ... so relaxation looks in New Zealand. Because there was a lot of wood near the campsite, we lit a nice camp fire in the evening. This is now almost the standard of every night in the tent.
The next nights we spend in cabins again. Partly strong thunderstorms and heavy rain makes us the consideration quite simple, to ask for an upgrade from the campsite to the bed in the cottage. Because the Waikaremoana track is not so busy, the upgrade never presents a problem. You just have to pay the price difference in cash. Then everything is fine.
On the last day of our hike, my question was also clarified whether the driver of the shuttle will reappear. No, he did not. But he sent a friend who picked us up. So all good. And so the Waikaremoana track remains a very nice memory.
We enjoyed another day of relaxation from the Waikaremoana track, before we went on to Taupo. The weather is quite changing. Sometimes it has 25 degrees and much sun, the next day is rain. In Taupo we stop because there are a few interesting geothermic fields next to the Tongario crossing. We take a closer look on them at the first day. Everywhere in the geothermal field that the kiwis traceably call "Craters of the moon", bubbling and bubbling. It smells something musty. So you can already imagine the journey into the interior of the earth. Numerous warning signs warn you to tough the hot steam or even to leave the marked paths. Yes, of course, with the usual flip flops it would not be so good to go somewhere where it gets hot. We can not look at the geothermal power plant nearby. There is no one. This is completely remote controlled. Too bad.
After the visit to the "Craters of the moon" we make our way back to the backpacker and prepare our provisions for tomorrow's hike. The Tongario Crossing is an alpine hike over a chain of volcanoes very close to Taupo. The view from there should be fantastic and you can look down into a volcano crater. Unfortunately, the weather forecast is not so favorable and so only the possibility remains in the early morning to call to the organizer of the tour and to find out whether the thing is rising or not. A tape announces happy news and we are waiting for the bus to take us to the starting point of the hike. Numerous buses are on their way to the starting point this morning. To the summit of the Ngauruhoe are a few light clouds to be seen. So my decision to wear short pants and t-shirt was just right. The ascent is well developed, but not quite easy. Daniel and I have only little problems. On the contrary, it is nice to be able to run without the heavy backpacks. But gradually the clouds are condensed, and from the initial drizzling there will be a really strong continuous rain.
Well, the rest of the hike was not much fun. Very wet, ice cold and to see there was partly not even more than the own hand before eyes. Too bad. Only on the descent on the other side the sky did clear up in the afternoon. But just, only to await the slower hikers in the afternoon with a strong thunder-rain and once again completely to soak. Fortunately, Daniel and I were among the quicker hikers.
In the evening, the sun shone again, as if all the day had been the best weather. If someone had told me what he was experiencing today while the crossing, I would not believe it.
After the experiences at the Tongario Crossing, we are fortunate not to have lost our desire for hiking. We wanted to go for another walk. However, no longer on one of the "Great Walks", but only a day trip. So we make a stop at Te Puru on the way to Auckland. A small tranquil town, where we found a very small and very comfortable backpacker. We just did not want to be right in one of Aucklands giant back packers. That's why we decided to stop. Here in Te Puru there were several hiking trails that we could take. We decided to go for a day hike through the back country. A very varied and beautiful hike. Even if the paths are not very often taken and have grown correspondingly. The signs were always sufficient and we could find the way well. Less beautiful were the many muddy pott holes, because we had no rubber boots to wear, which would have been quite reasonable. Daniel made a closer acquaintance with one of the muddy pott holes on the way.
The hike was definitely worth it. At the summit arrived a really very newly built hut was waiting for us. If we had known that, we would have stayed up here for a night. But so we are back in the afternoon and handed Daniels clothes to the washing machine.
A last stop on the way to Auckland we had with the visit of the Coromandel peninsula. In the town of the same name, we covered ourselves with a few souvenirs and went to Auckland late in the evening.
Auckland is the largest city in New Zealand, but not the capital! Nevertheless, here is almost always something going on. The backpackers are almost always fully occupied and we were glad to find a place to stay. It was a good walk to get there to the backpacker. To the reward there was a room without window and with bad or no air conditioning. But then, sometime, I was overwhelmed by sleep and the next morning we got up early to watch Auckland.
We spent a few hours watching a lot of sights. Daniels' guide was literally full of ideas. But at some point it was good. We went back to the backpacker and picked up our backpacks. With the shuttle we went to the airport to Auckland. The long, boring return journey was started. Unfortunately. Hard to believe how fast four weeks can pass.
As I already said on the journy back: b o r i n g.
Already on the first leg from New Zealand to Australia I have searched in vain for the "HALT" button. I just wanted the pilot to stop briefly, open the door and let me out. I had absolutely no desire after so many days outdoors to squat in this stupid, narrow and loud plane.
Well, with two or three beers in my head I then fell asleep ...
