Ireland - Scotland Tour 2019
Chapter 1 - Preparation
It has already been three years since my last big bike tour. That is why I was all the more pleased to finally do another big round trip by bike. I have already biked a lot in the north of Europe. From Iceland to Denmark and the North Cape I have already explored many kilometers by bike. It' s been a long time since I had the wish to travel to Ireland, Scotland and England. The fact that I have not prepared such a large round trip for a long time, I noticed in the last days and nights before my departure. Maybe I underestimated a bit, what I have to do for the planning. And so I was sitting at the computer until late at night to buy tickets for train and ferry, to plan the route and to pack my luggage. How should the tour actually run? How do I get to Ireland at all? A journey by airplane was out of question for me because of the high CO2 emissions caused by airplanes. Would it be possible to cycle straight from Leonberg to the Bretagne region and then take the ferry to the south of Ireland? Just this idea was constantly in my head, until I seriously planned the route a few days before my departure. Hm... France is not easily crossed in two days. If I start right in Leonberg, I' ll need at least two weeks to get to Roscoff in the north of France. These two weeks are needed for my round trip through Ireland and Scotland. I had to realize that I must find another option to reach the ferry. However, the ferry from Roscoff in France to Cork in Ireland was set for me. So, the train was the only option left for me to travel through France to Roscoff. Which train do you choose in France when you need to travel a little faster? Of course the TGV. I ever wanted to travel with such a super train and experience how it feels to rush through France at 300km/h. The transport of my bicycle in the train caused headaches. Because you' re not allowed to take a bike on the TGV. I was researching for a long time to see if there was any exception. But I was without success. Only luggage is permitted. So my faithful companion Speedy had to change from a bicycle to a piece of luggage. Taking it apart... From the bicycle store around my corner I received a large cardboard box which formerly contained a bike that had been taken to pieces. I took my bike into pieces, wrapped the frame in plastic to protect it and stowed everything in the big box. Plus a pair of shoulder straps, so I can carry the box AND the Bobby (my luggage trailer) at the same time. When traveling by train there is not much time while changing and many stations are not designed for bicycles with a trailer. I definitely want to be able to simultaneously carry bike + trailer from A to B. Whether carry, pull or drive does does not matter.
Route planning was another point of my preparation. That I didn't pay much attention in Geography became obvious to me while planning the journey across France. This should not happen again in Ireland and Scotland. Here, I was helped by the EU's EuroVelo project. The project combines many local cycling routes into one large, sometimes transnational cycle route. Thus, there was also a route for Ireland and Scotland to download for the GPS device.
The exciting question on each trip is: "What do I have to pack?" This question also kept me very busy again. How many cycling shorts do I pack? Which jacket do I pack? Do I need clothes for everyday wear? What do I wear on the train? What is the weather like in Ireland? Will it rain a lot there? Do I need any technical equipment, tools and spare parts for such a long trip?
I started to spread out my clothes on the living room floor. The heap grew fast and soon I had to decide, what remains at home and what do I carry to Ireland? If something is missing there are two options: Either buy it on the spot, or you just don't miss it. But at some point everything necessary has to be packed into the large yellow bag of the Bobby while the rest stays at home.
With that the preparations were finished. The travel fever rises, the trip may start.
Chapter 2 - Arrival
In the early morning of June 24, the time has come. A friend took me straight to the train station in Stuttgart using his large van. That saved me a walk from my house to the train station and the transfer in Stuttgart. The Deutsche Bahn made a short term change of the track for the departure which lead to some extra morning sport for me and the other passengers. On board of the TGV it became clear that it would have been really impossible to transport a bicycle. High tech train or not. There is only little space for large luggage. I can stow the Bobby well and fortunately I find an empty corner in which I can stow the large box with my bike. Then we start. Stuttgart - Paris. Thankfully, the train conductor has turned a blind eye as my box with the bike had reduced the corridor a little.
The Western Station in Paris is very crowded. Meanwhile, the temperatures are also no longer as pleasant as in the early morning in Stuttgart. I carry the box with my bike by the belt across my shoulder. The Bobby I pull with the other arm behind me. That' s how I get from the train station platform to the Metro. I have to transfer from the Western Station to the Northern Station in order to catch my train to the North. The Metro is anything but barrier-free. In addition, there are those stupid gates at the entrances and exits of the subway. They are made for people to walk through. They are not made for travelers with large luggage! Sweat is pouring down my body in the heat. This starts really well. Did I pack too much into the Bobby after all? No time to think. First of all, I have to find the right track at the north station and get on the correct train. Again I can find a place for my big luggage. And now we're heading northwest at full speed. It is quite amazing. While the ICE in Germany reaches its maximum speed, the TGV easily adds another 100km/h. Crazy. I just hope nothing will happen and remember the big accident in Eschede.
I reach Molaix in the late afternoon. I am glad to finally get off the train. After all, I've been sitting on the train for many hours. At the station in Morlaix I first search for a dry and quiet place to reassemble the Speedy. Luckily I did not forget any single part of Speedy when I packed it at home. I shred the large cardboard box, thus it fits into the garbage can - now the bicycle tour begins. Although first only to the accommodation at the other end of the city, but the first kilometers are done. Morlaix is quite hilly. Going uphill I clearly notice the weight of the Bobby with his luggage.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-25.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
The next morning starts with a delicious breakfast and a sightseeing tour through Morlaix. Well worth seeing. The Morlaix viaduct is very impressive. A multi-story railroad viaduct that spans the town and trains still pass over it today. Even the TGV by which I arrived yesterday. The destination of today's trip is the city of Roscoff. The harbor is 30 kilometers away from Morlaix. Here the ferry to Ireland leaves in the evening. Up to the ferry leaves I have still much time. Nevertheless, the buffer of an overnight stay in Morlaix was important to me. My experience with the Deutsche Bahn in Germany shows over and over again that a buffer is absolutely necessary for long journeys. I arrive in Roscoff around noon. I spend the day there with sightseeing - in the late afternoon I cycle to the port. For me, it is each time an overwhelming feeling to cycle on such a large ferry. The proportions are almost surreal. I chain bike and Bobby somewhere to a side wall of the ferry and carry my luggage to the large passenger compartment in which I will stay tonight. I did not want to book a cabin for one night. Once the diesel engines start, the entire ferry shakes and rattles. I believe sleeping will be impossible because of the noise.
Until the next morning I somehow and somewhere slept a few hours. I just want to get off this noisy ship. I walk on deck and watch the sunrise. In two hours I will be in Ireland. I can' t wait to get there. I want to see the country!
At 8 o'clock we reach Cork in Ireland. I get my bike and the Bobby ready and off we go.
And don't forget: "DRIVE LEFT".
Chapter 3 - Southwest Ireland - From Cork to Galway
I can hardly wait to attach the Bobby to my bike again and ride off the ferry. Off this incredibly noisy ferry and into the beautiful nature of Ireland. As I ride across the ramp, emotions are getting really high within me. However, then I have to quickly concentrate on cycling again. "Drive LEFT" it says on signs that remind me to use the correct side of the road. After a short inspection at customs, I leave the port and head for Cork. First of all I have to get some cash out of an ATM. I do have a few Euro with me, but that won't get me very far here. While I am still picking up my credit card from the luggage, I observe somebody taking cash out of the machine next to me. But what is this? The banknotes are familiar to me?! EURO?!? Wait a minute, I didn't even think about that during my preparations. What currency is actually valid in Ireland? Well, thanks to mobile internet I can clarify this right away and find out that Euro is the official currency in Ireland. Hm, excellent travel preparation... I withdraw some cash anyway and then set off on the track to downtown Cork. It's a big city. There are many pubs, which of course is what I expected from Ireland. Slowly the track leads out of town. The traffic decreases and the roads become smaller and smaller. In addition, it becomes very hilly. It always goes uphill - downhill. I take a short rest to strengthen myself. In the distance there are mountains to see and I guess that there will be some work coming up to me. I quickly eat a few extra cookies and cycle on. Via serpentines it climbs uphill for a long time. Pretty exhausting with the Bobby attached to the bike. Furthermore, I miss quite a bit of training. But I'm sure I'll get enough of that in the next few weeks. Soon the track continues downhill to the sea. I now have reached the "Westcoast Way". The landscape and the houses remind me very much of New Zealand. Sure, many people emigrated to New Zealand a long time ago and took their culture with them. But also the landscape is so incredibly similar that I often can't get out of my amazement. One thing is certain for me: As of today, I would advise everyone to abandon a 30-hour flight, save the money and the CO2 and go to Ireland first. And if you absolutely need 30 hours to get here, you can come by train and ferry. Then a feeling of New Zealand comes up in any case!
The GPS shows me reliably the way and also finds many campsites along the route. Time for quitting today. I have driven enough for the first day. The tent is quickly set up. I enjoy a warm shower and afterwards a freshly tapped, cold, delicious Irish beer. What can be better than such a great start for a trip?
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-26.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
The next morning I continue on the "Wild Atlantic Way". However, the road is quite busy. It is not a pure bike path. To warm up, the route runs the main road just after the start and goes over a pass. Fortunately, the traffic subsides and I can enjoy the beauty of nature. In my mind I am again quite often in New Zealand. The route is fortunately more and more away from the busy roads and takes small side roads. The next mountains come into view and again there is quite hard work to cope with the next pass. Despite everything I am just completely amazed by the nature. It is so incredibly beautiful here! In the valley it is quite warm, on the passes blows an icy cold and strong wind. I have fortunately packed enough warm clothes. After the third pass on this day I realize that it's about time to look for a campsite and end the day with a cozy meal and a cool Irish beer.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-27.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
The next morning I notice that the three passes of yesterday have left a little sore muscles. Or was it the beer? In any case, my legs are not really happy about the fight with the headwind. First the way runs along the coast. There are no mountains in sight. But that doesn't mean that the coast of Ireland is completely flat. It goes always uphill and downhill. Actually I could let my bike and the bobby roll downhill and get some speed for the next ascent. But unfortunately the roads are much too bad. I would only break the bike or the bobby. In the evening I reach Lahinch. A small tourist town on the coast. In the youth hostel I find a bed to spend the night. I shop to fill my provisions and then visit an Irish pub, which is right next to the hostel. With Irish live music, Irish beer and a good dinner the day comes to an end.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-28.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
After a detour to the promenade in Lahinch, the route continues on the "Wild Atlantic High-Way". Meanwhile, I do not like the way so much, because there is just too much traffic. It's loud and sometimes they overtake quite close. I am then always quite happy when the track branches off again on one of the small side roads. This morning the track ran along a lot of farmland. The typical walls of stone lined the way over many kilometers. There was a small pass, but this is now standard and must be driven. In the afternoon then the way runs along numerous small villages and houses until I reach the city of Galway. I build up my tent at the camping site, while I look again and again with worry to sky. It looks very much like rain. The wind is blowing hard and brings more and more dense clouds. I try to align my tent so that the wind has as little surface to attack as possible. Next to me an older gentleman is struggling with his tent. Well, it is not a real tent, but more a Fishermans Shelter. So a tent in which one sits while fishing and is protected from the rain. The older gentleman is probably also on his bicycle. Bicycle... Well, probably the older gentleman and the bicycle are the same year of construction. How he managed to transport the folding stretcher on the bicycle to here is really a mystery to me. BUT it doesn't matter at all. He is a cyclist, on the journey just like me. And that's why I help him with his tent. Even if I cursed the stupid tent quite fast, it stands sometime halfway. Exactly at that moment the sky opens its floodgates. A strong rain shower comes down. Almost in panic I pack all the bags of the elderly gentleman, stuff them into his tent and then flee from the rain into my tent, which lives up to its name "Hotel Hilleberg". I wait until the shower has calmed down and eat from the provisions. Boah, what a weather! After the rain and storm have calmed down, I dare to leave my fortress again. The older gentleman stands in the rain, smiles as he sees how carefully I stick my head out to the tent and says to me: "MARTEN, IT'S JUST A SHOWER!" I will probably never forget this moment in my life. While I almost fled the rain in a panic, he just stayed outside and calmly let the rain wash over him. An Irish native.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-29.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
Chapter 4 - Western Ireland - From Galway to Foxford
Wind and rain were also my companions the next day. During the night, the strong wind already tore very much at my tent. One rain shower after another poured down on my Hotel Hilleberg. Towards morning the rain subsided and the strong wind dried my tent. The wind made sure that the kilometers along the Wild Atlantic Way became quite exhausting. When the path finally branched off from the busy road, I reached a large moorland area in the highlands. There was nothing that would have offered any protection from the wind. No tree, no hedges, no hills, nothing. And so I became the plaything of the elements. Depending on the course of the road, the wind comes with full force exactly from the front, or it grabbed me from the side and pushes me together with bike and trailer across the road. Fortunately there is hardly any traffic. If the wind comes from the front, then I can still just do 15 km/h. If it goes uphill I become still a little slower. Actually, the climb hardly makes a difference. The strong wind takes most of the power. In addition it rains heavily in between again and again. With the strong wind it feels as if one would be washed with the power washer. The raindrops hurt your lips and face. The good thing is: The strong wind dries everything quickly again. Until the next shower. My mood is not very good right now. While I make a break and eat from my provisions to refuel I look in the Internet for a possibility to the overnight stay. To build up the tent somewhere here would be surely no problem. Nobody would be bothered by it. But after such a day, with much rain and storm I have somehow the need for a solid accommodation. If the storm pulls the whole night at the tent it is again nothing with sleep. I find a hostel near Leenaun. The way to the Connemara Hostel led along the Killary Fjord - An area that could not be more beautiful. While I drive along the fjord, the mountains rise steeply next to me and on the other side of the fjord. Some of the peaks are covered in clouds. This beautiful nature soon makes me forget the efforts of the day. And in the middle of this beautiful environment I reach the hostel. After a warm shower I sit down in the TV room. But instead of the TV there is a nice fire burning in the stove. While it is storming outside and a rain shower is coming down, I make myself comfortable on the sofa, enjoy the warmth of the fire, have a beer and write the diary. A wonderful place.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-06-30.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
Because it was so beautiful there, I really needed some time to get out of the feathers and onto the bike the next morning. In my mind I'm still sitting on the sofa in front of the warming stove. In fact, however, I drive around the Killary Fjord, stop again and again to soak up the beauty of nature and try to capture a few impressions with the camera. After an hour I see again the hostel of the last night. Well, the fjord is huge! Or in other words, the first almost 15 kilometers bring me only 2 kilometers to the north. Around noon I reach Westport. From then on, the route leads through numerous small villages again, until the next mountains come into view. Today's stage ends in Foxford. There is no campground. But there is a cheap accommodation. Soon I will reach Northern Ireland.
| {gpxtrackmap}/irland_schottland_2019/2019-07-01.gpx,preset=etappen{/gpxtrackmap} |
Höhenprofil |
Without rain I continue the next day through a rather unspectacular landscape on small country roads. Grassland as far as the eye can see. Well, the Irish milk has to come from somewhere. In the late afternoon I reach the border to Northern Ireland. A long bridge over a small river leads to Belcoo. I'm really curious how this will look in half a year, when the Brexit becomes hard reality. In Northern Ireland I get some cash. But first I'm not sure if it's the wrong money again. It says Bank of Ireland on it. But also Pounds. That is totally confusing. There are three different versions for the 20 pound note. Somebody should understand that. Total chaos. At the grocery store, I could also pay with euros. They do it practically here in the small border traffic. All this is at risk because of the Brexit...
A little later I reach the campsite. I put up my tent, take a shower, eat something for dinner and then take care of my bike. I clean the chain and put some oil on it. More is not to be made today with the technical service. Everything else still looks okay. I type then the diary while the GPS device is already charged at the power bank. Then I crawl into my sleeping bag.
Chapter 5 - Northern Ireland
The next day offers no spectacular scenery. Dry and without wind we go to Lettermacaward. There is no camping here. But a nice private accommodation, which is run by a very nice lady. She can hardly wait to cook for a hungry cyclist. I don't have to be told twice and enjoy a huge plate of Irish Stew (not vegetarian, but lots of energy...). The route after Letterkenny was again very hilly. It went constantly up and down. But today the ups and downs don't bother me at all? It goes up quickly uphill. Going downhill I have to brake again until the brake pads smoke and soon it goes uphill again. What a few large plates of Irish Stew bring is amazing. Around noon I pass the entrance of Glenveagh National Park. What a fascinating area! Honestly, I imagine the area in Canada or Alaska to be similar. Below a river, above the bare mountains and everywhere forest and lots of nature! Unfortunately, the road does not lead into the national park, but over numerous small side roads further and further to the northeast. Today I have to report about the people here. Somewhere on one of these countless small side roads on which I drove today a guy with his old tractor comes towards me. He stops, turns off the engine and we talk a while about anything and everything. Where I come from, where I want to go and so on. The usual small talk... Then a car drives up. I think someone is about to have a choleric outburst and rage, because the road is blocked.... What happens...??? The driver gets out of the car, comes over, stands next to us and we talk for quite a while until I say at some point that I have to drive on. Oh, they both say. That's right, so do we! Have a good day... That was already a great experience. The people here are very calm and relaxed.
Today I'm making good progress. Until the afternoon there are already 140 kilometers on the pedometer. I wanted to continue to Derry today. Actually no problem. That would be another 30 kilometers. But then I remember my upper limit of 120 kilometers per day. I have this limit for a reason. If I drive too much on one day, I notice it the next day. So I look for an accommodation in Letterkenny. I plan the route for the next day, drink an ugly beer (there is NO Irish beer in Northern Ireland!) and then go to bed.
After I have left Letterkenny behind me, the route runs again on small roads with little traffic. This is all good to drive. But always up and down. At some point I have to leave the Eurovelo1, because I want to go north. I do not miss the place. Now I have the choice between 5 kilometers along a road with medium traffic, or at least 10 kilometers up and down without traffic. There I decide for a little more traffic. I must not make altitude meters with all might. Finally I reach Derry (Londonderry). From where it continues on the cycle path 93. But that has quite a lot of altitude meters. The gradients are now very steep and only in the smallest gear to be done. But just a kilometer away it goes downhill again, so that I really feel sorry for the brakes. So it runs for the whole afternoon. It's exhausting and wears me down. Nevertheless, I absolutely want reach the Golden Sand camping. I leave the track and navigate with the smartphone to the camping site. Once again the way leads over a mountain. Almost one hour it goes only uphill. In the smallest gear I manage the slope barely. My legs are tired and my butt has also no more desire to continue. Moreover, it starts to rain. And there is a very cold wind. When I arrived on top of the mountain, an ice-cold wind blows the raindrops in my face. The view up there is zero because of the dense clouds. And so it just goes down again on the other side of the mountain. Also very steep. This time the brakes really have to suffer. The discs have turned blue and the raindrops fizzle on the hot disc brakes. I cycle a bit more until I reach the campsite. There I can set up my tent and take a warm shower. That is really good. Unfortunately, I can not adjust the temperature of the water. So it comes almost boiling hot out of the shower above me. No matter, this heat feels good! On the way to the campground I saw a restaurant. Well, that would be a really good idea. So I quickly buy milk for breakfast and then drive to the restaurant. Unfortunately, the kitchen is already closed. At half past nine the kitchen is closing and now it is already quarter to ten. What a mess. I drive back to the campground disappointed. There is a takeaway. I get a large plate of fries and a burger there.
The next day the route runs along the north coast of Northern Ireland. In the morning it was a really nice route. It went along some places where Game of Thrones was filmed. Bishop's Garden for example. There was a lot of hustle and bustle everywhere. You had to pay a lot of money if you wanted to have access to the film locations. I was really not in the mood for that. Around noon I reach Ballintoy. There should be something worth seeing at the harbor. But except for huge legions of tourists I saw nothing. Also here was just too much hustle and bustle for me. The meters of altitude from the road to the port and back were really unnecessary. About afternoon, when I'm back on the route, it's really exhausting. It is partially so steep up the mountain that I almost do not make it in first gear. My knees really raise the alarm now. The climb is so steep that I just manage to crank. For pushing it would be too steep. My shoes would slip away on the road. The strain on my knees is enormous. I notice that! Although the view is super nice, I don't have the eye for it right now. The problem with the constant up and down is that the body has to bring really maximum power during the climb. When it goes downhill only a little later and the cold wind cools the wet body out completely, also all muscles are cold again. At the next ascent (after a maximum of half a kilometer) you start again ice cold and must immediately bring full power. That is very hard for your condition and it is much more exhausting than to continuously bring a high performance. . This afternoon it was really very extreme. Downhill it was also a hot thing again for the brakes. I meanwhile drive downhill at walking pace. Then I don't cool down so much and the brakes aren't stressed so much. I really hope that the brake pads will last until the end of the trip.
With this my time in Ireland comes to an end. The next day it's a few more miles along the coast to the port of Larn (north of Belfast). There I take the ferry to Stranraer in Scotland.
Chapter 6 - Scotland
From the ferry, Scotland looks hilly too, but the mountains aren't that high. At least that's what I hope. Soon I will see it. We'll be there in 10 minutes. OK, I'll reverse everything. As the ferry turns to dock pretty high hills are coming in to sight. I must have been on the wrong side of the ferry. I guess it won't get any easier... In the harbor of Stranraer I assemble bike and bobby. With the GPS device I quickly find the way. I planned to make more kilometers today, when I pass a camping site. I consider whether I should continue. Actually I still wanted to make more kilometers. I search the Internet for other campsites. But there are barely campsites in the region. Then I remember that I should definitely do the laundry. An important point! So I decide not to go further today and to use this campground to do my laundry and have a lazy Sunday. I build up my tent, take off my cycling clothes and take everything to the laundry room. Here I fill the washing machine and start a batch of laundry. In the meantime, I cycle to the grocery store. That is also important for me to have cereal for breakfast tomorrow. When I return, I make dinner, have a beer (finally good beer again!) and wait until the laundry is done. Afterwards I put the laundry in the dryer. Hanging on the clothesline is useless. The sun is already setting. So I make a comfortable evening in the laundry room.
The next day, the route first leads south. To the south coast of Scotland. So far, the path runs without extreme climbs. Sure, a little work needs to be, but it really goes quite easily. In Scotland, cyclists don't seem to forcefully want to take every possible climb. That's good. After about 30 kilometers, the route heads north. Very good. Because I ultimately want to go north! Even further enormous rises or constant up and down remain out. This surprises me a little. In the afternoon I pass the Galloway National Park. Now here proper altitude meters are to be done. Even here however everything is somehow well feasible. I drive through a large forest area. Or at least what is left of it. Many areas are completely naked. Partly it was already reforested. There is a lot of windthrow. Partly very fresh. It is deserted here (except for a few cars). Pure nature. There are many good possibilities to camp here. A bit aside and no one would see a tent or be bothered by it. But I still want to make a little progress. Besides, I don't have enough water with me to camp. Being thirsty I can't sleep and I am lacking water. Moreover, there is a campground in Maybole. Yes, I really like to go to a campsite. It's a bit more comfortable when a warm shower is waiting for you in the evening. Whereby here the showers are mostly boiling hot. You can't set the temperature, you just open and close the water. Hot water on a sunburn is awesome. Luckily, my sunburn at the beginning of the tour is almost gone.
Overnight the rain came. Rain all through the night. Rain at breakfast, rain while taking down the tent, rain while packing and rain while driving. The route first runs along the Scottish west coast. Then the track leaves the coast and continues through the countryside. Now there is also height meters to make. In the rain gear this is not so much fun, because at some point I'm probably almost as wet from the inside as from the outside. However, the gradients are not quite as exhausting as in Ireland. In the afternoon the route runs then along an old railroad line. At least that's what I assume. Because the route is flat, without big climbs and straight for many kilometers. I can go at a good pace. I have to hurry a bit anyway. Because I have promised Moses, my B&B host, to be here at 5 pm. From the road I text him that it will probably be 6 pm. The last kilometers through Glasgow are long. That is because I still think in kilometers, but the signs here always show miles. And that is quite a difference. I thought to myself this morning that it would be only a small section of 60 kilometers to Glasgow today. The fact that it ended up being 108 kilometers surprised me a bit. It turned out to be half past six when I stood at Moses' door and first asked for some water to wash my clothes. Everything was totally dirty. I didn't want to go into his apartment like that. I washed the bag of the Bobby, took off my rain clothes in front of the apartment and carried my bicycle up the stairs. Then it is done. I take the things that got wet this morning while packing, or that I packed wet, out of the Bobby's bag to dry. Except the tent. Unfortunately, that has to stay wet in its bag for now. Then I can take a shower. Oh, what warm water feels good!!! Afterwards I get dressed and run a tour through Glasgow. I want to go shopping and eat something. It has actually stopped raining.
A technical service on Speedy is necessary the next morning. After all the rain I must necessarily clean and oil the bike chain. My cycling clothes and also most of the other things that have become wet in the previous day's rain are dry again. Most important to me is the down sleeping bag. The route leads rapidly out of Glasgow. At first it follows an old canal. That means it's pretty flat and I can make good progress. The trails are still wet, but there's no rain from above at the moment. Even if the dense clouds suggest something else. The paths are really good to ride. I'm very pleased with the bike paths here. They are really great. No comparison to Ireland or Germany! The first 35 kilometers to Loch Lomond are done quickly. But then there are quite a few meters of altitude to climb. In addition it goes up and down again and again. But not as hard and not as often as in Ireland. So there is a lot of time to enjoy the beautiful landscape. After I have reached a saddle point, the track runs again many kilometers along an old railroad line. This means little climb and proper speed. This is really fun. It's really interesting where people used to build railroad tracks in the past. Finally I reach a national park. Paved roads end here and gravel now covers the paths. I notice: Good gravel with soft potholes is much more pleasant to drive than asphalt with its hard potholes. The nature here is absolutely impressive. Magnificent. I rest at a lake, eat from the provisions and drink a beer that I still have from yesterday. Over and over again I stop briefly to take a few photos of the beautiful nature.
Because of so many stops, I hardly make any progress, which will prove to be a problem later on. It is today quite easy to cycle kilometers. It feels good. Unfortunately, I still don't make much progress although it is relatively easy to ride on the former railroad lines. My final destination for today is Aberfeldy, which is a good place to be. That should be easy to manage. There is a campground again. I want to use it, because I want to unpack my totally wet tent, dry it and sleep in it. But the route is really very long. Again and again, when I look at the signs, Aberfeldy with its campground doesn´t come closer. I'm already thinking whether I should book another accommodation on the road via Internet. But so late in the evening, the few (affordable) accommodations that there are along the route, are already booked. So I motivate myself again and again that it is really not far anymore. Sometime I reach Aberfeldy. In the meantime it is half past nine. A store is still open. I take the chance and buy food for dinner, breakfast and provisions for tomorrow. On the way to the campground I pass a chips store. Hungry? Well, why not....? I eat a large portion of chips and a cheeseburger. Veggi or not.... I really need something to eat now to recharge my batteries for tomorrow. I cycled 164 kilometers today. The campgrounds reception has already closed. That is of course not good. Also the barrier is down and locked. Well, with the bicycle that is actually no problem. I enter the site from the side entrance and look around to see where the tents are and set up my tent in the same corner. But wait... Unfortunately, I cannot speak of a tent. I would rather call it a water castle. I had to take it down the day before yesterday in the rain and stow it completely wet in the bobby. And just as completely soaked it is yet. No Hotel Hilleberg. All wet. I set it up and wipe the inner tent dry with a towel. For sleeping it is okay. Hopefully tomorrow the sun comes out. So everything is dry again. I stow my things in the tent and take a shower. This is really good, even if the water is boiling hot again. When I am back, the tent is of course still completely wet. Sure, at 23 o'clock nothing dries from the sun. I plug the GPS device to the powerbank, drink a beer and write the diary. In the meantime it is almost 1 o'clock. Today was really a long cycling day. I definitely need to ride a little less tomorrow.
Chapter 7 - The Scottish Highlands
The night was rainy. I get up around 9 o'clock, walk to the reception and want to register me. The lady there is not very pleased that I didn't call the number she has written on the door. Okay, that was clear to me. I simply didn't want to call any numbers last night either. I apologize for the mistake and also think I'll be sure to do it next time I arrive late again. That is the end of the subject then. I somehow don't really get going today. It takes eternally, until I have my things in the tent half-way together. Arising dark clouds help to get some drive in me. I put on my cycling clothes, prepare the bike, put the stuff in the bag of the Bobby and tear down the tent. The tent still has a few wet spots, but no comparison to the complete wetness a few days ago. Just as I roll up the tent, the first drops fall. Luckily that's not so bad now. Most important thing to have a dry tent in the bobby. When a heavy rain shower starts I pass underneath a bridge. This is perfect! I use the time and make a snack break. That has to be. And also I empty my can of beer, which I didn't drink last night, because I was too tired. I arrive in Pitlochry. A small town where very many tourists are on the road. The track leads mainly along roads with very little traffic or extra bike paths. It climbs a pass. Not steep, but the headwind does its job so it' not too easy. The climb takes several kilometers. Nevertheless, I'm right in the middle of the Scottish Highlands!!! The landscape is beautiful. In Invernahavon on a beautiful campground the day comes to an end. While I sit here in the tent and write the diary it has started to rain. And not too little. . I ca just hope that it has stopped until tomorrow morning and I can pack a dry tent again. That' s important to me. As you can surely notice while reading.
During the night it rained quite a lot and heavily. I first rub my tent from the inside with a cloth so that I don't get wet from the condensation on the inside every time. Then I rub the outside of the tent as well. Hopefully it will dry out faster this way. I'll have breakfast from the provisions and then want to drive off. Maybe I can be on my way at 10 o'clock? There's someone else on the campsite with a bike. Yesterday he ignored my regards. Today, while I was packing my tent, he probably got curiosity after all. Roman from Russia has been coming to Scotland every year for years and has been on vacation there. He likes it here very much. He was interested in my "Hotel Hilleberg". Weight and so. He shrugged at the price. Well, quality costs money! We talk a little more, but then I want to start. And in fact, at 10 o'clock sharp, I'm on my way. I was a bit surprised myself when I looked at the time on the GPS device. The route is no longer that easy. The completely flat pieces along the old railway lines had spoiled me very much in the last few days. Today it was mostly over hilly stretches. But no comparison to Ireland. There are long stretches that used to be a road. Because the traffic has increased more and more, new highways or expressways have often been built right next to the old road. The old streets are either open to local traffic or only for cyclists. The way did not lead over the very high mountains. So everything is more or less pleasant to drive. Of course the climbs are exhausting again and my legs definitely notice the weight that Bobby has to drag. I'll get to Newtonmore around noon. There are quite a few tourists there. And (if I remember correctly) there is a local train that still runs on steam. In any case, I met such a beautiful old steam locomotive on the way. I didn't have the opportunity for a photo. There were too many trees in the way. Now it went on towards Inverness. The weather was pretty dry today. Every now and then a light shower. Just a shower! In the afternoon I leave the track in the direction of Inverness.
I have reached the 2,000 kilometer point of my tour. The way to Inverness is for me virtually a dead end. That means that tomorrow I will drive about 15 or 20 kilometers from Inverness back the same way, to the place where I then continue north. Nevertheless, it was good to make the detour to Inverness. A beautiful city. There are many tourists here and you can always hear some Germans. I look around. In a small alley I discover a chips store. There I get myself something to eat. I can sit outside in front of the store and eat relaxed. That is convenient. Only the German tourists look at me a bit stupid. Why? No idea. I sit in front of the small store, eat comfortably and drink a coke. So nothing unusual. I don't loudly fart and burp either (or do I...?). In any case, the food is delicious. I still watch a bit of the city, buy provisions for tomorrow and beer for tonight.
After a relaxing night in Inverness, I leave at half past nine. That is a good time. First I cover the same distance that I drove yesterday to Inverness. Blind power so to speak. It's just about 15 kilometers from Inverness back to the track. Nevertheless it would have been a pity not to make this detour. It simply goes uphill to get out of Inverness. With leaving Inverness I leave probably also the Scottish Highlands behind me. The mountains disappear and the landscape becomes flat. That pleases the cyclist of course. Now and then, however, there are short, steep climbs. These are easy to manage in the lowest gear. On the plain, the tailwind helps to make easy and fast kilometers. I make good progress. Until the afternoon, anyway. Especially on new road surfaces, I notice an imbalance in the rear tire. I check the spokes. They are all okay. Then I notice that a small piece of the tire sidewall is coming off the sidewall of the tire. This is not good. As it looks, I will not be able to finish the tour completely with this tire. A new tire is needed. I still can go on. And so I decide to search for a new tire in Aberdeen. But when I arrive there it will be Sunday. Moreover, the imbalance became stronger and stronger. By Internet I find a small bicycle store. There they can help me. Although it is not exactly the tire width I currently have on my bike, but the new slipper will certainly endure until I get home. So I can continue now. Without unbalance....
I have lost time because of the breakdown. To the campground where I want to spend the night tonight it is still a few kilometers. The route is very beautiful. Often along the sea, and then through small towns a bit away from the sea. A few kilometers before I reach the campsite I buy some food. Milk for breakfast, provisions for tomorrow and beer for tonight. When I arrive at the campsite and have picked out a nice place for the tent, it rains. Well. Is not so bad. In a moment the tent is pitched. I pack all belongings into the tent and the rain stops. I try to get to bed quickly. Tomorrow there's another nice track to drive.
I start the new day with lots of cereals. That soaks while I am typing a few sentences into my diary. I am still slightly tired somehow. There was a light wind during the night, which means my tent is dry. That's great. I hope there won't be a shower until I pack it. It takes a little while until I have all my stuff together. Then I have to wash the dishes etc.. It takes time because I always have to walk a bit to the kitchen building. At 9:30 a.m. I leave. First it goes along small side streets up and down again. Similar to Ireland. But not quite as steep. However, soon I have to change more often to the small chainring. Otherwise I can't get up the climbs. It doesn't ride so well today. I myself am not tired, but my legs are. I don't get into the rhythm. After a few kilometers I reach the coast. The view is again wonderful and makes again a little better mood. But soon the path branches off from the coast. Today I have to motivate myself really to go on. I make a short break after 30 kilometers and eat from my biscuits. I have no desire for a long break with bread and cheese yet. But still it does not ride better. In the early afternoon I have another break. At an old railroad station there is a table and a bench to sit. I use this opportunity. I unpack my provisions and eat comfortably. A cyclist stops and asks me for oil for her chain. I got some oil and quickly the squeaking of the chain stops. Then I continue to eat. From the station the track runs again a few kilometers along an old railroad line. Fortunately, there it progresses slightly. I also notice that the break has benefited and some energy is available. Until Aberdeen it is still far to cycle. It is now constantly running up and down. Heat up the body uphill, cool muscles and joints again completely while going downhill. Wearing warm clothes doesn't help much either. Because I can't change clothes every two kilometers. Around 17:30 I arrive in Aberdeen. Lynn the hostess is very friendly. I can park my bike, she shows me the room and the bathroom. After I have taken a shower I make my way into town. I am curious about Aberdeen. In a chips store I have dinner. Afterwards I walk a while through the city. Around 21 o'clock I am back home. I check out the route for the next two days. The day after tomorrow I want to be in Edinburgh. I book a room now, since there is no campground in the city. I don't want to camp far outside Edinburgh either.
The next morning I gather my things, carry them all to the exit, say goodbye to Lynn and start the GPS device. But what is it? The GPS device reports that it could not find any satellites? What is this bullshit?! I confirm the message and switch off the device to start it again. But no response. Nothing is working any longer. It turns off again immediately. What a shit!! Half an hour, or even longer I try to get the device working again. I try to charge it. Without success. I try the USB cable and the USB mode. Without success. The device turns off immediately after the first start screen again. What a shit!!! Fortunately, I still have the track saved on the smartphone and can use the smartphone for navigation. Besides, there are enough signs along the way. I now decide not to waste any more time bringing this piece of electronic junk (that it just is at the moment!!!,) back to life. Of course it annoys the hell out of me to just stand there dumbly. I now hit the road. The route leads again through small villages along the coast. It is a very beautiful route! Unfortunately it doesn't stay like this forever. It quickly gets hilly. Around noon the sun comes out and warms. Again and again I look at junctions on the broken GPS device to be sure that the way is correct. A habit. If I'm really not sure, I have to stop, hop off my bike, park it safely, take off my backpack, take out my smartphone, check the GPS and then stow everything safely away again. Only then can I continue driving. I definitely don't want to keep the smartphone strapped directly to the bike all day. The vibrations are very strong. And if smartphone now also fails because it has a loose contact or something else, then I'm really without any navigation. I am now really annoyed enough about the stupid GPS device. I want to have fun on my bike tour now! It runs always along the coast. Sometimes over stick and stone, sometimes a few kilometers into the country through the hills. I realize that I have run out of steam at the moment. I don't have much desire to cycle anymore. Probably it is simply because of the stupid GPS device that has spoiled my mood. I go still up to Monifieth. There is a beach campground right on the route. I have already made good progress to Edinburgh today. When I reach the campground there is nobody in the reception. I call the phone number, which is given there for such cases. One explains me, where I can build up my tent and so on. Then for today it is really enough. After the tent is pitched, I drive a some hundred meters into the city and search for a chips store. There is an Asian fast food restaurant. Meanwhile I got used to get dinner somewhere to eat and enjoy my meal at the campsite. After dinner I must do some shopping. The supermarket is open until 23 o'clock according to the Internet. Thus no reason to hurry. When I go there after dinner everything is dark and the store is closed. At just after 8 pm??!?! What is that about?!? Closed for an event. Damn! There is another small store across the road. They have milk for breakfast, beer for later and water. That's all I need.
The next morning the trail leaves the coast and heads inland. Then across the Tay Bridge near Dundee. A really very long bridge. Fortunately there is an extra path for pedestrians and cyclists. In the afternoon it just continues up and down. With the view of the landscape and a relaxing day in sight, it's easy to ride. But the way to Edinburgh is far. I have estimated that somewhat shorter. In the early evening I reach the Forth River and the Forth River Road Bridge. Now it is still 20 kilometers to Edinburgh. This bridge across the river is quite an impressive piece of engineering! I don't know how many kilometers it takes, but it seems almost eternal until I reach the other end of the bridge. In parallel, there is another bridge for the highway and another very old bridge for railway traffic. I take a few pictures and continue. The road leads to the city center. The signposting is good. At a point I have marked before I have to leave the track and turn towards the hostel. The navi app from the smartphone guides me to the hostel. Wonderful. I check in. I can also extend the booking for the room for two nights. Wonderful! I take the Bobby including bag into my room. Speedy has to stay outside at the bike parking. I use two locks. So nobody might steal Speedy. I do some quick shopping. I have a gigantic thirst for one or two beers. But unfortunately it's already after 10pm and there is no more beer in the supermarket in Scotland. Shit... But no matter. I'll just drink water instead. I really have to take care of my laundry. The cycling clothes have to be washed. Once that's done I can take a look at the city! But now I'm going to bed first!
Today is a rest day. I need a break. My legs are tired and the motivation is also not very high. First of all, I should do the laundry. And really, I need a break and go about the day in a relaxed way. Around noon I have finished the laundry. Just then it starts to rain. However, I am already used to stronger rain and make my way to the city center. First to the observatory. From where I have a good overview of the city. Then I walk up to the castle. There is a lot of hustle and bustle. Around 15 o'clock my feet hurt from walking. The slippers I have with me are well suited to walk a little in the city. They are not hiking boots. For lunch I search a chips shop. Afterwards I went to the hostel and lay down in my bed. Two hours later I wake up again. Well, that was then probably necessary. I have a look at the further course of the journey. In particular where there are campsites and whether there are more mountains to cross. It looks like the next two days will be quite exhausting. Between Edinburgh and Newcastle there is a mountain range. And therefore a lot of hills. I plan to keep these stages short so that I don't waste all my energy again. Behind Newcastle it becomes apparently plain.
Shortly past 7 a.m., I wake up and start the day. Today I continue with my journey. I hope that my legs feel more desire to ride a bike again. Well, now I see to get it going. After all, I don't want to stay in Edinburgh. I pack my stuff, return the room key and start cycling. First to the point where I left the track the day before yesterday. Then I follow the signs. The signposting is good and so I get out of Edinburgh without any problems. However, it takes about 10 to 15 kilometers until I have left all the suburbs behind me. Via small country roads it continues. Today a strong headwind blows, which makes the journey exhausting. Too bad I think again and again. If this were a tailwind, the tires would probably be smoking. But this way at least my muscles are burning. Well. You can also talk yourself into a bad mood. Little by little the mountains which I already have seen yesterday on the map come closer. They are not very high, but still nearly bare. No trees, only grass, a few bushes and of course lots of sheep....
Uphill with a strong headwind. That in short, just sucks! I am a bit annoyed by that right now. Nevertheless, it does not help anything. The landscape is very beautiful again. In between I overtake a cyclist who is also working his way up the mountain. This motivates me a bit. Someone who is not better off than me. How strong the wind is I notice only so really, as it goes downhill again. Actually, I would have to brake properly here, but the opposite is the truth: I have to pedal hard so that I don't come to a standstill. Damn wind!! Little by little I get back into slightly more sheltered areas. Also the trees become more numerous and denser again. Soon it looks like the Black Forest. In Innerleithen I make a short stop. In a small store I buy some fruit and fresh cheese for lunch. Innerleithen could really be a small town in the Black Forest. At least from the surroundings. I drive to Melrose. There is the only campground around. After 100 kilometers it's over for today. The next campground would be too far away for today. The campground is directly next to the track. I don't have to spend a lot of time searching. To get a place for my tent is no problem at all. After showering I make my way to the village. I look for a chips shop and finally I find one. After a proper dinner I go shopping for breakfast (and something to drink for tonight). Back at the campground I make myself comfortable in the tent.
Chapter 8 - England
The next day I leave shortly before 10 am. The trail out of Melrose is easy to find. My destination for today is Berwick-upon-Tweed. The small town at the coast is about 80 kilometers away. That is certainly not that much, but why should I set my goal so high again. The track leads first to the east and every now and then a little bit to the north. This is not quite my direction, but the strong tail wind makes the kilometers quite easy. The track always passes along small roads with little traffic. At 14 o'clock I reach Berwick-upon-Tweed. I have cycled just about 80 kilometers. That is quite a bit short, I decide and look on the Internet, wherever there are more campsites. Even if the town is really beautiful at the coast, certainly has a nice campsite and a delicious chips shop, I would like to cycle a little further. In Waren there is the next camping site. That would be another 40 to 50 kilometers. Well... Then let's go! The track follows the beach at first, then it leads through the dunes. Very nice and also quite good to cycle. This way the tour is really fun! The sun also breaks through the clouds. I feel that the warmth, announced by the weather service for Germany, has now also arrived here in the UK. It's really as if someone had turned on the heating. Unfortunately, the track does not run along the sea all the time. Soon it turns inland again. Now there are also again altitude meters. But with that I have left the last mountains in Scotland behind me. The wind becomes an issue again. Quite strongly the wind blows once again in the wrong direction. Well. I make progress. In the late afternoon there is some rain. In the early evening I reach the campground in Waren near Bamburgh. The campground is very crowded. Fortunately I still get a place for the tent. Sadly it is not like in Ireland, where you can just put up your tent anywhere on the campground. There are strict regulations for example the distance to the neighbor and so on. Fire protection definitely makes sense. So the day would be done for today. Oh yes, unfortunately I realize painfully that I am not in Scotland anymore. No more Tennent's beer is available. Only one can, which I still have in my backpack. English beer really doesn't taste that good compared to Tennant's. Or to tell the truth: It´s really shit....
In addition to the bad beer, the weather was bad the next morning. I will probably drive once again in the rain today. Well, not a great perspective. But while sitting cozy at breakfast, the rain stops and the sun comes out. Wonderful! I quickly eat my muesli and dry the tent. I also briefly set up the solar panel, because the power bank is pretty empty and tonight I have to charge my smartphone again. At least I don't have to charge the GPS device in addition. An advantage....
While I put my tent down and role in again raindrops come from the sky. Fortunately, it stops right away. I am ready to start at shortly before 10 o'clock. The track runs again along many small side roads. First to the northeast towards the coast. Then again a bit inland and around noon back to the coast. The track goes through the dunes now. This is fun to drive. However, it is very slippery on the narrow trails between the dunes. Also, the tracks are steep in some places. If I do not pay very much attention I get out of the only 20 cm wide lane on the wet grass. Because my bicycle tires, however, rather designed for roads, than for wet grass, I drive sometimes as on soft soap. Twice I have briefly lost control of the bike and the Bobby and only as if by a miracle I have not fallen off the bike or hurt myself. I have twice been pretty sure: Now it hurts right away and I am lying in the mud.... Fortunately nothing did happen. But for the beautiful landscape I had then hardly an eye. From a distance the rain showers look beautiful. But only as long as they do not catch up with you. There were several rain showers today. Partially very strong. During the milder showers I just cycled on and thought of the older gentleman at one of the first campsites: Marten, it's just a shower!!!!
Around noon I was lucky. I went to the supermarket to buy something to eat, when a light shower turned into a heavy rain. Luckily I was in the dry. When it slowed down, I cycled on. The sun was shining as if nothing had happened. And so I had a shower every now and then the whole day. In the afternoon there was another very heavy shower. The water even came out of the canal and lifted the lid. Another two or three hours to the next campsite. Last night I heard that the vacations have started in England and the campgrounds are very full, especially now at the weekend, so I decide to call there to make a reservation in advance. On the phone they tell me: Sorry, no tents allowed on our site. Ugh, whatta nonsense...!!?!?!. The next campground, which is reasonably close to the route, comes just past Newcastle. I don't want to cycle that far anymore! So I check what other places there are in the surrounding of Newcastle. In Whitley Bay I get what I am looking for. I reserve the overnight stay via Internet. Today I have a solid shelter. The track now unfortunately runs through some ugly industrial areas. In the afternoon I arrive at the accommodation. The hostess is very friendly. I can clean my bike and the Bobby in a small yard behind the building with the water hose. The bag of the Bobby is totally dirty and also receives a thorough wash. After I have taken a shower I make myself up and search for a dinner. I watch out again for a chips shop to eat there comfortably for dinner.
The following stage starts quite pleasantly. Until Tynemouth, the track always runs along the shore. Lined by an eternally long promenade. In Shields I have to take the ferry. The trip takes only 10 minutes. Until Sunderland it continues along the shore. Behind Sunderland the track leaves the shore and becomes a really bad dirt track. The track is not maintained. There are huge potholes and the bushes from the side of the track stretch very far into the track. Nettles and thorns included. Everywhere, where "civilization" is nearby, there is garbage scattered around, so that it is just horrible! In addition there are a lot of broken glass on the tracks. I don't know how many times I stopped to check my tires for small glass splinters. 10 times for sure! Again and again there are places where someone has tried to burn whole heaps of garbage. The remains of mattresses are still lying around. There is not much to see, because the bushes grow very high everywhere. It's like driving in a tunnel. I do not enjoy this at all! In the afternoon the track passes through some bigger cities and their industrial areas and harbors. Norton, Portrack and Middlesborough to name a few. Here the track becomes a search game. There are places where the track deviates from the track that I have saved in my smartphone. I follow the signs. But suddenly the signs are gone, or destroyed by vandalism. So I have no other option than to drive back to the last known points and then follow the track on the smartphone. Occasionally signs appear again. I must take note that I can probably not rely 100% on the signage in the cities. In the evening I then reach the campsite in Redcar. A very friendly lady at the reception saved the day. I pick up something for dinner. Then I clarify how it will proceed with the tour. I will not finish the tour without any further action. I still want to cycle a few more days. Up to Hull. From there I take a ferry to Rotterdam. At the ferry I have to book a cabin, which I don't really like to do. I can sleep badly even for less money, when I remember how noisy it had been on the last ferry from Roscoff to Cork. One thing is for sure in any case: I will not forcefully tear down the miles to Harwich on the bike. It's not at all worth it here!
The train from Hull to Harwich is almost 180 euros. And I have no guarantee whether I can get on the train with the bike and the bobby. So I decide to book the ferry from Hull. This costs also just around 200 euros. But the transport of Speedy and Bobby is no problem. I complete the booking. On Wednesday evening the ferry departs from Hull. Until then I must have done the track. With that the question how it will continue is clarified.
Last night was unfortunately not restful. The wind has freshened during the night so much that I woke up at midnight. My hotel Hilleberg has almost blown away there. The wind tugged very hard on the whole tent. I put the pegs as deep into the ground as I could. When setting up the tent I already chose a protected place between a building and a high wall. The wind still managed to get a strong grip on it at times. I really thought that it will tear the tent tonight. Also in the morning the wind is still very strong. You can hear how the North Sea is boiling! It is half past six when I get up and prepare my breakfast. I am curious how I will progress with the bicycle in the storm today. After I have had breakfast I try as quickly as possible to get my tent into the Bobby's bag. Because it already looks very much like rain again. I pack up quickly and try to dry my tent a little bit. Thanks to the very strong wind the drying goes quite well. The folding then is clearly more difficult. Actually it is a thing of the impossible. The wind immediately tears the tent away in whatever direction. To make it not too easy a strong gust of wind spreads my garbage over the complete lawn. Damn. I chase after the garbage and just see how another gust of wind takes my tent and throws it over the wall of the campsite. Not good... So the garbage spreads out again. That I collect, after I have my tent again under control. But I give up on folding the tent tidily and putting it tidily into the bag. I roll it up somehow and then put it in the bag where it belongs. Next, I take care of the garbage. It's just after 9 o'clock when I start driving. First I pass through Redcar and continue to the promenade towards the southeast. The tracks are very well made. There are many tourists. Later the track runs along the coast above the cliffs through the dunes. The track is very narrow and really challenging for cycling. At one point I have to disassemble the bike and the Bobby to carry 50 meters down a staircase and up again on the other side. Then I reach a bare meadow. The track leads straight uphill. No chance to pedal it. Too steep, the ground too soft and my tires are too slippery. It is the first and hopefully the only 100 meters that I have to push. Fortunately, the track then runs relaxed again through the dunes. A little later I stand before a traffic sign, must think of my brake pads and swallow briefly. 25% gradient, that is damn steep. And probably it then goes up again just as steeply on the other side...!?!?! Anyway... 25%! I was going downhill very slowly. But when I get to the end, my brakes were smoking!!! Because the downhill was not only very steep, but also very long. I reach a small fishermen village and as suspected it continued with 25% gradient uphill after the village. Quite honestly, without wanting to brag: What are 25% slope after more than 3,000 kilometers uphill and downhill cycling?
Having passed this mountain challenge, the track runs across the inland. I finally have to step on the gas. It's already 2 p.m. and I've done just 50 kilometers. Finally I reach the town of Whitby. From here the track runs on an old railroad line to Scarborough. The next five or more kilometers although steadily climb, but at least no passages where I have to carry my bike and the Bobby. Unfortunately, the track is not particularly well paved. Partly the bushes grow completely into the track. And the countless potholes do not allow a particularly high speed. So I creep along the track at 15 km/h until Scarborough. In Scarborough I make a short rest and have a look in the Internet where the next camping site is to be found. It would be still 15 kilometers to go. That is no problem. I do so, because it were only 90 kilometers to Scarborough. Unfortunately, on the campground once again no tents are permitted....! Yes such a mess!!! Well, then I take a room in Scarborough and close with the tour for today. Via Internet I quickly find a cheap accommodation. It is also well located. So everything is well together. After showering, I take a walk through Scarborough and I must say: "I really like Scarborough! A beautiful town by the coast. There is a big castle, but it is so far up the hill that I didn't feel like walking up there. I rather walked down to the beach and watched the hustle and bustle there. There were plenty of tourists there, lots of food stalls and stores where they sold all kinds of odds and ends. When it gets dark I make myself on the way back to the hotel. I want to do some laundry and then slowly go to bed. Tomorrow is the last day which I am traveling in England with the bicycle. It is also expected to be very warm tomorrow. Ugh, I have already sweated a lot this afternoon.
The night in the hotel was quite pleasant. Yesterday, after arrival, I spread my damp things as well as I could in the room. Especially important to me is always the sleeping bag. Because the thumbs do not stand the moisture. Overnight the things have become so dry that I can leave everything in the bag of the Bobby without problems the next days. In addition, I have washed a few cycling clothes by hand yesterday in the evening. So on Thursday, when I get off board in Rotterdam, I will have some fresh cycling clothes. The cycling clothes also got reasonably dry. The remaining moisture dries during the trip on the back of the backpack and on the Bobby bag. Because I have spread all clothes in the room to dry, it takes longer until I have bagged everything again. At a little after half past nine I get going. From the accommodation it starts a short part uphill, to reach the track again. From Scarborough I find well and quickly out. I liked the city somehow. First I continue along the coast. The view to the blue sky and the sea is wonderful! But soon the track leaves the coast and goes inland. The track is pretty flat. Just right to get into a good groove. But soon there is an uphill with 16%. Rejoiced too early. But in the meantime such climbs don't upset me anymore. Only the traffic...! Unfortunately it is not a small side road. Although there are not many cars on the road this morning on the steep and winding track, but the drivers drive like crazy! Overtaking despite oncoming traffic, then passing the cyclist at high speed and 50cm distance, or forcing the oncoming traffic to brake hard. Unbelievable ...! Well, fortunately I do not have to drive here for a long time. Soon the track is again away from the road and I continue on small side roads. The roads are fairly good and I can really speed up again. Very much to the annoyance of some folks on the road bike. They don't like to be overtaken by a mountain biker. And then even from a mountain biker with a luggage trailer!!! Around noon the track makes another detour to the sea. In Sewerby I take a lunch break and enjoy the sun. Then the track continues back towards the inland. With enough water to drink, the heat is bearable today. It is noticeably warmer than in the last days. After nearly 100 kilometers I have another rest and look on the map, how far it is still to Hull. I had originally planned to arrive in Hull tomorrow. I had calculated carefully, so that I have in no case large stress to reach the ferry. Now it looks like there are only 30 kilometers to Hull. I'll definitely make it today without any problems. So tomorrow I will have time in Hull all day and can have a relaxed trip to the ferry in the evening. I use the Internet to search for an accommodation. Briefly before 18 o'clock I arrive at the Hotel Royal in Hull. After check-in someone appears and gets my bike to the storage room. The heat today was quite exhausting. In addition, I am a bit sad, because this is where my tour is over now. Somehow I am glad to have made it through the last weeks without any accidents or other problems. This has been a really wonderful tour!
Luckily I took a shelter tonight and did not sleep at the campsite. I actually do that on my tours whenever possible, the last one or two nights if possible no more camping. So the tent, sleeping bag and everything else can be packed away dry. Depending on the situation, it can eventually take a few days until I can unpack the things at home. Which is not a good thing. Yesterday evening I bought some provisions for the ferry. Plenty of scones. Yummy! But in general I'm very careful not to eat as much as in the last days. Even if it is hard. But without the many kilometers riding on my bike, I don't need to eat so much anymore. Around 10 o'clock I check out, but leave my luggage still in the hotel. I have a look around in Hull. For lunch I head to a chips shop. Then I start to make my way to the harbor calmly. There is still plenty of time to get there. It is really damn warm today and those few kilometers to the port make me sweat again pretty good. At the building of P&O Ferries I ask where I have to go. I cycle over a large ramp into the ferry. One assigns me a place for the bicycle there. I carry my luggage into the cabin and look around on the ferry. Somewhat melancholic I allow myself an official farewell beer. This is the end of the tour. Too bad! Perhaps there will be another piece to drive tomorrow in Rotterdam: From the ferry to the train station.
I am really looking forward to the crossing. The sea seems to be very calm. Hardly any wind. However, a thunderstorm is brewing above Hull. No wonder, since it was so muggy all day. I am curious to see who else may be in the cabin. There are still a few hours until the ferry leaves. I am hungry and eat from the provisions. So far, still no one but me in the cabin. After I have eaten a truckload of scones, I search for a quiet place in a bar, enjoy a beer and watch as we depart. Later then I go on deck, since it is warmer outside than inside. Damn air conditioner. Until the last lights are gone I still stand at the rear of the ferry. Then I make myself slowly toward my bed. I will be alone in the cabin.
Chapter 9 - The Netherlands (Heat Battle)
Yesterday evening I checked out the bike path from Rotterdam to Nijmegen on the Navi. Somehow I really like the idea of riding this track for two more days as well. I have to get on the bike anyway to travel from the port to the train station. Why not just ride a little further? I will do that. Got time and in the Netherlands cycling I simply once want to make. The ferry enters the port of Rotterdam. We are asked to go to our bikes or vehicles. A little later, the huge gate of the ferry opens and we can leave. I have to remember to drive on the right side of the road again. I briefly talk to a cyclist who has also started from the ferry and wants to cycle to the station in Rotterdam. Unfortunately, I can't assist him, because I decided not to take the train in Rotterdam, but to cycle a little through the Netherlands. That I say to him also in this way. He would maybe also abandon the train and cycle a bit more. That is his decision. At first I cycle hard since I want to make progress. After 20 kilometers I then take a break. I had no breakfast and for some scones now would be a good time. The cyclist from earlier comes by and I'm just about to have my second or third scone. We talk briefly about our plans. At this point the track branches off to the train station and continues to Nijmegen. Finally Oliver decides to follow the track as well. I am happy to have some company and we continue together. Initially, it is a bit difficult until we are on the intended track and also somewhat aligned with each other. Fortunately, this works quickly and also very well. Mostly we follow the Maas cycle path. The later the morning gets, the higher the temperatures are rising. In the morning the temperature was still okay. But now, around noon the thermometer displays 39 degrees Celsius. That' s very hot. I run out of water at some point. On the way, I bought some more at the supermarket, but it's just not enough. We keep taking breaks so that our bodies can cool down. Sadly, there is hardly any shade in the nature reserve and certainly no drinking water. At a small farm we stop and ask for water. Fortunately we can have our bottles filled up there. With that we continue. The heat is incredible. The asphalt seems to glow! In some places it really feels like there is someone pointing a hot air blower at me. The heat was definitely the challenge of the day. At least we made it. At a very small ferry we were once again really lucky. The volunteer ferrymen were just about to close for the day when we reached the ferry. They took us to the other side of the river. Else we would have to drive back countless kilometers and take a long detour. In the evening we reach the camping site in Woudrichem. We can stay overnight. Before we pitch the tents we buy dinner and beer to drink. Together we have dinner, enjoy cold beer and then take care of our stuff. In the evening we sit down in a beer garden, enjoy the warm evening with a few cold beers.
First thing the next morning I try to update the GPS with the new track. Because last night the GPS device was suddenly switched on in the backpack. It must have been on for some time, because the battery went half empty. I switched it off and on again. It was working without any problems. But then this morning it didn't work again. Now that' s very strange. Stupid fucking machine! Made myself breakfast and gradually start the day. Right after breakfast I pack my tent and tell Oliver goodbye. Today each of us is finishing his journey. I set off and arrive after about half a kilometer at the first ferry. But I have to wait for a while until the small ferry starts. At 10:30 hopefully it will sail. I am a bit annoyed that I have to stop and wait again after less than two kilometers. But well, I can wait the quarter of an hour. Then shortly after half past nine someone gets up actually from its deck chair, waves to me to come and walks to the ferry. It is okay like that. The very small ferries are run by volunteers. And who can blame someone if they don't want to ride in the sun across a small river in this heat? I talk to the ferryman about my trip to Ireland and Scotland. His remark about the people in the Netherlands and Germany was interesting. He said to me how much friendlier and more relaxed people are in Ireland compared to here or Germany. Oh yes!!! I agreed with him from the bottom of my heart. I' m glad that my impression didn't mislead me. Then we arrived on the other side and I say goodbye and cycle on. The temperatures are still bearable. The track leads along the Maas over almost endless dikes. There is little shade. Again and again there are places where I have to cross with a ferry. The challenge of the day again was the enormous heat. I drank fairly about 10 liters of water during the day and did not even have to go to the toilet.
The late afternoon I tried once again at Deutsche Bahn to buy a ticket for the bike. What a mess...! I don't believe it! I had already tried to buy a bike ticket last week. This was not possible at all online. So I called and was told that the bike card is only available in Germany at the machine or by mail. Well that's great. Today I try it again. Because I need a place for the bicycle just from Düsseldorf to Stuttgart. Thus, I can get the bike card in Düsseldorf at the vending machine. BUT....
Finally, after 10 minutes, I am on the phone with a lady and explain to her what I need. Hearing the name Nijmegen, she doesn't understand anything. I spell... The dumb bitch hangs up the phone...!!!! .............. Censorship............. I try again. Once again I'm on hold for 10 minutes until I get to someone who deals with international tickets. He simply explains to me in a few, completely understandable words how things work: I always need a bicycle ticket. But I can also buy a ticket tomorrow in Nijmegen. It doesn't make any difference, because it's valid on the international train network. For the IC from Düsseldorf to Stuttgart, I need a reservation for the bike, just like you do for a seat. That's the difference between a bike ticket and a reservation. He checks. Sadly, everything is occupied. So I can't take the IC. The regional trains are a good alternative. So tomorrow morning I get on a regional train in Nijmegen. I bought a lot of water and provisions. With that I should survive a longer train trip without problems in this heat. If everything works out, I'll be back in Leonberg tomorrow evening.... This evening I sat down on the terrace in the hostel in Nijmegen and enjoy two more beers before I go to bed. I am tired. First thing in the morning, I want to get to the train station. Because the trip will take a long time. I'm tired and just want to sleep....
That night, unfortunately, I did not sleep well. It was very warm in the room. After breakfast, I pack up my things and prepare the Bobby for the ride on the train. This means that I remove the small mudguard and tie a tension belt across the bag of the Bobby. The mudguard is plastic and a bit delicate. And if I get stuck somewhere while changing trains, it's sure to be broken. I want to avoid that. The tension belt is important, so that I can grab the whole Bobby in case of need also simply from above and carry. Around half past seven I cycle towards the train station. Buying the ticket is no problem. 34 Euro to Mönchengladbach. The bike ticket is also included. I have to change trains in Venlo. With the bike I can get on the train easily. No high entry. I dismantle the bike and the Bobby inside the train, turn the bike and the Bobby around and put the bike and the Bobby back together. That way I'm faster when changing trains. In Mönchengladbach, the train leaves from the same platform. That's easier for me. Where there are no escalators, I have to disassemble the bicycle and the Bobby and carry them individually from one track to the other.
Gradually I realize that I am back in Germany: An elderly gentleman with a bicycle enters. Actually, there would still be room if a young guy would rise and slide two seats. However, he says that he is handicapped and remains seated here. What an asshole!!! I get up and offer the gentleman to move his bike next to my bike. That pleases him very much and so all becomes well. When I have to change the train, the gentleman assists me to assemble my bike and the Bobby. My next stop will be Cologne. Then the onboard entertainment program turns out to be very interesting. A Harz 4 family is sitting in the train. And what they talk about is like cheap private television! Terrible....! Not faked. At least I don't see the cameras. The change in Cologne worked out fine. But I had to go to another platform with the bike and the Bobby. Thanks to escalators, that was no problem. I could also board the next train comfortably. Next I have to change trains in Mainz. The train is on time in Mainz and the change also works. I have to disassemble the bike nad the Bobby to get everything into the elevator. Then unfortunately, the compartment for bicycles is at the other end of the train. There is plenty of time. A guy around 30 boards the train with a fully packed bicycle. But the guy is pretty messed up. No shoes and quite torn clothes. He makes conversation with my bike and the Bobby. Besides, he is fiddling around with an electric kettle. Kind of strange. Then, what has to happen, happens: During the inspection, he doesn't have a ticket, the police is called, and so on. Apparently he is wanted or missing. I think about whether I should help him and if so, how?
Finally, I give him 10 euros on the way out.. Perhaps that is helpful for him. Then I have to go on to the next platform. Thanks to escalators, no problem. The train to Heidelberg is not practical for boarding. Luckily, I tightened the tension belt around the Bobby this morning. So I can grab bike and trailer just quickly and well overcome the large gaps between the platform and the train. Next stop is then Heilbronn. That train from Heilbronn is an old passenger train. Quite rickety and without air conditioning. However, it has windows. Travelling like 10 or 20 years ago. There is not much space to park bicycles. Up to Ludwigsburg it is not far. I have to get off again. The next train is the S-Bahn. I urgently need to go to the toilet. But I don't feel like taking the S-Bahn anymore. I decide to ride the route from Ludwigsburg to Leonberg by bicycle. Since I know the track well, I set off. First of all out of the city. Thunder in the distance from the direction of Leonberg makes me realize that I may have made the wrong decision. In Markgröningen, I overlook the entire Stuttgart region and hope that I might be lucky and that the thunderstorm will not hit me. But from Ditzingen the first drops are falling. It does not get worse fortunately and so I reach the town square in Leonberg at shortly before 20 o'clock. I have made it. Even though it is raining right now, it doesn't bother me. I go home and ring the doorbell. I am curious whether my mother recognizes me. No problem. She comes Downstairs and we unload my luggage together. Most of my things I put in the laundry basket right away. It makes no sense to carry the things upstairs first and then bring them back down to the laundry room. Only the washing machine I don't start today. Around midnight I go to bed. Everyday life has caught me up again with quite a bit of harshness. Too bad! Nevertheless, I am very happy and grateful for this beautiful vacation.
